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R oAMERICA'S GREATEST DRUG STORE

^'Open Air to Everi/where.

We Want Criticis

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URS is a public service corporation^-our liveli- hood depends on your good will — our 'buses are run for You.

Now, then, if you have any criticism, any com- ment to make on our service — please make it.

We want to be guided

b}' what you think of us

— and how can we unless

Fifth Avenue J^^u tell US frankly and

Coach Company fully what you do think?

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CONTENTS

Chap. Page

Frontispiece. Munifipal BuildiuK ---... 4

1. General Information. TrausportatioD Facilities, Subway, Elevated and Surface Lines, 'Bus Lines, Ferries, Tunnels, Bridges, Hotels, Itestaurants, Amusements, Theatres - - 5

2. Broadway. Skyscrapers, Trinity and Grace Churches, Union Sq., Madison Sq., Greeley Sq., Herald Sq., "Great White Way," Times Sq. 24

3. Fifth Avenue, Washington Sq, and Arch, New York Public Lil)rary, St. Patrick's Cathedral, Plaza, Residential Sectiou 40

4. Battery and Bowling: Green, Custom House, Produce Ex- change, Battery Park, Governor's Island, Liberty Statue, Ellis Island, Aquarium -------- 52

5. Bowling Green to AVall Street. Stock Exchange, Sub-Treas- ury. Assay Office, Financial District, Fraunce's Tavern - 59

6. Wall to Fulton Street. Clearing House. Chamber of Com- merce, Insurance and Jewelry Districts 65

7. Fulton to Chambers Street. Post Office, Printing House Sq., City Hall Park, Hall of Records, Municipal Building, Leather District 70

8. Chambers to Canal Street, Civic Center, Tombs and Crimi- nal Courts, Mulberry Bend, Chinatown, Hudson River Day Liue 75

9. Canal to Houston Street. Ghetto, Bowery, Bradstreet's, Po- lice Headquarters 84

10. Houston to 14th Street. Cooper Union, Greenwich Village - 89

11. 14th to 23d Street. Washington Irving High School, Hebrew Charities. Tammany Hall, Steinway Hall, Chelsea Piers, Sixth Ave. Shopping District 96

12. 23d to 34th Street. Metropolitan Life Ins. Co. Building. Appellate Court House, Madison Sq. Garden, "Little Church Around the Corner," Bellevue Hospital, Pennsylvania Station 105

13. 34th to 43d Street. Murray Hill, Bryant Park, Hotel Navarre 118

14. 42d to 59th Street. Grand Central Terminal, Board of Edu- cation, Clubs and Theatre Districts 124

15. 59th to 110th Street, East. Rockefeller Institute, Normal College, Fire Department 135

16. Central Park. Menagerie, Obelisk, Museum of Art - - 141

17. 59th to 110th Street. West. Columbus Circle, Museum of Natural History, Academy of Design, Riverside Drive - 148

18. 110th to 130th Street. Cathedral of St. John the Divine, Columbia University, Grant's Tomb, Harlem - - - 155

19. 130th Street to Kingsbridge. College of the City of New York, Fort George. Deaf and Dumb Institute - - - 161

20. Bronx. Parks, New York University and Hall of Fame - 16G

21. Brooklyn. Navy Yard, Greenwood Cemetery, Prospect Park, Fort Hamilton. Coney Island 171

22. Queens. Long Island City, Flushing, Jamaica, Rockaway - 178

23. Richmond. Sailors' Snug Harbor, Billop House, South and

Midland Beaches, Fort Wadsworth 180

Hotels -.-... 182

Theatres - - - -* '^ * 184

Index - - - . .. ^.!. 185

Tke Greatest City m tke ^A^orld

RAPIDLY advancing to first place in point of population, New York already lias achieved the primacy in all other respects. The Chamber of Commerce estimates the banking power of the city at $4,770,180,48;}, or 22.66 per cent, of that of the entire United States. With eleven great railroad systems and 114 steamship lines focusing at the greatest harbor in the world, the Chamber of Commerce estimates that the water-borne traffic exceeds 150,000,- 000 tons, filling the holds of 4,201 ships in foreign trade and 5.914 in coastwise traffic. Unlike other great commercial cities. New York is also the greatest manufacturing city. Within its limits are 27,283 factories and shops engaged in 297 lines of manufac- ture, representing an investment of $1,529,946,487, a sum nearly half the total the money in circulation in the United States. For the accommodation of the largest transient population, averaging 200,000, and the largest permanent hotel population, 100,000, New York maintains over 700 hotels, capable of entertaining 300,000 people. Over half a billion is spent annually in the city's dining rooms. The annual food supply is estimated as costing $1,750,- 000.000.

The city's manifold attractions are scattered over all parts of its vast area, and the visitor whose time is limited cannot possibly see more than a small portion of them, but by following the carefully planned itineraries laid out in this book he will be able to see the most interesting sights with the least loss of time. Definite tours are arranged, each covering a section of the city. Each tour begins and ends at a subway or elevated railway sta- tion. Broadway, from the Battery to Central Park (59th St.) and Fifth Ave., from Washington Sq. to 110th St. are described separately. By taking these two trips first the visitor will obtain a general survey of the most interesting part of the city and locate landmarks for subsequent trips.

Nearly all the data in this book have been obtained from offi- cial sources. The matter relating to public affairs, institutions and great corporations has been submitted to and revised by their officials, bringing such matter up to date and absolutely correct. To further insure accuracy, each tour was carefully gone over just before the book was put to press and the descriptions were veri- fied. Most of the illustrations were prepared especially for this work, in the same style as those which have given King's Views a world-wide reputation. The publishers will be grateful for suggestions that might increase the value of future editions.

3

MUNICIPAL BUILDING.

Center St. and Park Pvow to Duane St.

General Information.

NEW YORK CIT\' consists of five lioruughs, Manhattan. Bronx, Brooklyn, Queens and Richmond, which were united in 1898. yiost of the attractions are in the Borough of Manhat- tan, which was the original City of New York, and when speak- ing of Xew York City one usually means this borough. Each borough is also a county of the State. Manhattan was the origi- nal place name in the Indian tongue. The first recorded visitor was \>rrazani, a Florentine navigator, who is supposed to have landed on Manhattan Island in 1.524. The first undoubted dis- coverer of the harbor and river was Henry Hudson, an English mariner, in 1609. Although fur traders had lived here tempo- rarily, the first permanent settlement was in 1624. In 1626, Peter ]\Iinuit arrived as Director-General. His first official act was to purchase the island from the Indians with beads and other trin- kets, valued at $24. The first settlers were Dutch and called the place Xew Amsterdam. In 1664 the Duke of York took the colony for England and renamed it Xew York.

The BOROUGH OF MAXHATTAX consists of Manhattan Island and a few small islands in the bay and in the East River. It is about 13 miles long, with an average width of two miles, with an area of 18.80 sq. miles and population of 2,43.5,102. Hudson River, called locally Xorth River, lies on the west, separ- ating it from Xew Jersey. The East River, on the east, separates it from the boroughs of Brooklyn and Queens. The Harlem River, on the north, separates it from the borough of the Bronx. On the south is New York Bay. The BOROUGH OF BROXX is across the Harlem River from Manhattan. Its area is 40.6 sq. miles and its population 641.986. The BOROUGH OF BROOK- LYX comprises Kings County, including the former city of Brooklyn. The area is 80.93 sq. miles and the population 1,700,848. Xorth 'and east of Brooklyn is the BOROUGH OF QUEEXS, consisting of the former Long Island City and a number of old villages. The area is 117.36 sq. miles and the population 326,089. The BOROUGH OF RICHMOXD consists of Staten Island, with an area of 57.18 sq. miles and population of 91,870. It lies in the bay five miles south of Manhattan. The total population of the greater city is 5,-583,871 ; includmg Xew Jersey and Westchester suburbs, from which people commute to Xew York, it is (esti- mated) 7,400,000.

The arrangement of STREETS in Manhattan is generally rec- tangular. Xorth of Houston St., wdiich is one mile north of City

6 Ki>ig's How to See Nczv York.

Hall, streets running east and west are numbered from 1st St. to 220th St., the last-numbered street in Manhattan, and to 262d St., the last-numbered street in the Bronx. All streets from 8th to 142d St. are called east or west, as they lie east or west of Fifth Ave. The street numbers begin at Fifth Ave. and run to the river. Avenues run north and south and are numbered from First to Thirteenth Ave. Avenues A, B, C and D are short avenues east of First Ave. Lexington Ave. is between Third and Fourth Aves., north of 21st St., and Madison Ave. lies between Fourth and Fifth Aves., north of 23d St. North of 34th St., Fourth Ave. is called Park Ave. ; north of 59th St., Ninth Ave. is called Columbus Ave. ; Tenth Ave. is called Amsterdam Ave. ; and Eleventh Ave. is called West End Ave. as far as 106th St., where it ends at Broadway ; Sixth Ave. is called Lenox Ave. above 110th St. A few other avenues in the upper part of the island have dis- tinctive names but are of little importance.

Fifth Ave. begins at Washington Sq., a block south of 8th St., and runs through the middle of the island to the Harlem River at 142d St.

Broadway begins at the Battery, the southernmost part of Manhattan Island, runs northeasterly to E. 10th St., then north- erly, crossing Fifth Ave. at 23d St., Sixth Ave. at 34th St., Sev- enth Ave. at 43d St., Eighth Ave. at 59th St., Columbus Ave. at 65th St., Amsterdam Ave. at 72d St., and it meets West End Ave. at 106th St. It is more nearly due north and south than any other street on the island.

There is no system in the arrangement or naming of streets in the lower part of the city; still, the stranger should have no difficulty in determining his location, as the elevated structure or somo other prominent land mark is visible from almost every street corner.

The stranger should study the map and fix in his mind a few important points which will serve as land marks. These are the Battery, City Hall Park (Woolworth Building and Municipal Building), Madison Sq. (Metropolitan Life Insurance Company Tower), Times Sq. (Times Building), Washington Sq. (Wash- ington Arch) and Central Park Plaza, Fifth Ave. and 59th St.

TRANSPORTATION FACILITIES comprise the subway, 4 elevated railroad lines, 17 street-car lines running north and south, 22 cross-town lines running east and west, and a stage line. Besides these there are a number of taxicab and carriage companies.

The SUBWAY SYSTEM consists of a main line from Long Island Railroad station at Atlantic and Flatbush Aves., Brooklyn,

Kind's Iloiv to See Nezv York. 7

to 96th St. and Broadway. From this point there are two branches, the Broadway line running to Broadway and 242d St. (Van Cortlandt Park), and the Lenox Ave. branch, running to 180th St. entrance of Bronx Park.

The West side (Broadway) branch runs as an elevated struc- ture north of Dyckman St., and the East side (Lenox Ave.) branch runs as an elevated structure north of 149th St.

A loop of the subway connects the old Brooklyn Bridge with the Williamsburg Bridge, with stations at Chambers, Canal, Grand Sts. and Williamsburg Bridge. Brooklyn trains run over this loop at present.

STATIONS— ^Lmn Line : *Atlantic Ave.. *Xevins St., *Hoyt St, *Borough Hall, Brooklvn ; (South Ferry), *Bowling Green, *Wall St., *Fulton St., (Citv Hall), ^Brooklyn Bridge, Worth St., Canal St., Spring St., Bleecker St.. Astor PI. at 8th St., *14th St., 18th St., 23d St., 28th St., 33d St., *Grand Central Station, Times Square at 42d St. and Broadwav, 50th St., Columbus Cir- cle at 60th St. and Broadway, 66th St., *72d St., 79th St., 86th St., 91st St., *96th St. ^ ,

Broadway Branch : 103d St., 110th St. or Cathedral Parkway, 116th St., Manhattan St., 137th St., 14.5th St., 157th St., 168th St., 181st St., 190th St.. Dyckman St., 207th St., 215th St. Bronx: 225th St., 231st St., 238th St., 242d St., at Van Cortlandt Park.

Lenox Ave. Branch: 110th St.. 116th St., 125th St., 135th St., (145th St.). Bronx: Mott Ave., 149th St. and Third Ave., Jackson Ave., Prospect Ave., Intervale Ave., Simpson St., Free- man St., 174th St., 177th St., 180th St., Bronx Park.

Express trains run between Atlantic Ave. and the Broadway and Bronx terminals from 5 A. M. to 1 A. M., stopping at all stations south of Brooklyn Bridge and north of 96th St. Some express trains on the Broadway line run to and from South Ferry on a short spur from Bowling Green station. Local trains gen- erally run to and from Brooklyn Bridge, around a loop under City Hall Park, with a station on the Broadway side of the park. The local Broadway line trains generally run as far as 137th St. ; the local Lenox Ave. trains run to 135th St., then on a spur to 145th St. and Lenox Ave. During the early morning hours, when express trains are not running, local trains run between the Brooklyn and Bronx terminals. Running time of express trains between Bowling Green and the west side terminal is 43 minutes, between Bowling Green and the Brooklyn terminal 7 minutes.

* Express stops, also all stations above 96th St. Stations in ( ) are on branch .spurs.

8

King's Hon* to See Nezu York.

Fare, 5 cents, with free transfer between local and express trains everywhere and between subway and elevated railway at 149th St. and Third Ave.

The destination of trains is indicated by colored li.^hts on top of the first car, signs in the corner windows of the cars, and on express stations by illuminated signs, corresponding in color with the lights on the first car. It is also announced by the guards of the train and station attendants. Two red lights indicate a Broadway express ; two white lights a Broadway local. A red and a green light are carried on Lenox Ave. express trains, and two green lights on Lenox Ave. locals. Traffic being mainly south bound in the morning and north bound in the evening, such trains are uncomfortably crowded during the rush hours.

THE srnwAY.

The present subway system is probably the greatest work ever undertaken by a municipality, yet it is but a small part of the complete system which is under construction. Built to accommo- date 500,000 passengers daily, its average for year ending June 30, 1913, was 963,132, the total number of tickets sold in the year ending June 30, 1913, being 327,471,510.

The subway was constructed by the city and leased to the Interborough Rapid Transit Company, the contracts being awarded January 15, 1900, and completed October 24, 1904, and cost $75,- 000.000, one-third of which was spent for equipment, power- houses, rolling-stock, etc. Total length, 26.3 miles, with 85.2 miles of tracks. The entire system, as planned with the elevated rail- road, which will form part of the rapid transit svstem, will cover nearly 630 miles, costing about $350,000,000.

The ELEVATED RAILROAD SYSTEM comprises four lines, which start from South Ferry. The Sixth and Ninth Ave. lines

King's Hozi' to See New York. 9

run on the west side of the city to Eighth Ave. and 155th St. ; the Second Ave. and Third Ave. lines run on the east side to Third Ave. and 129th St. A spur on the east side runs from Chatham Sq. to City Hall, another runs from Third Ave. and 34th St. to Long Island Ferry, at the foot of E. 34th St.: still another runs from Third Ave. and 42d St. to Grand Central Station. An ex- tension from 129th St. and Third Ave. crosses Harlem River and goes through the Bronx to 198th St. and Webster Ave., the entrance to the Botanical Gardens in Bronx Park. All trains from and to City Hall are Third Ave. Bronx trains. Second Ave. trains go over the Bronx extension on Sundays, and during the morning rush hours some start at the Freeman St. station (sub- way), join the elevated railroad at 149th St., going over the Third Ave. route to 129th St.. then down Second Ave. These return over the same route during the evening rush hours.

On the Sixth Ave. line there is a spur from 53d St. to 58th; St. and Sixth Ave. The spurs, except the one to City Hall, are served by shuttle cars. The Second and Third Ave, roads use the same tracks and stations between the Battery and Chatham Sq. ; the Sixth and Ninth Ave. roads use the same tracks and stations north of o3d St. and Ninth Ave.

STATIONS. — Secoxd Ave. Line: South Ferry, Hanover Sq., Fulton St., Franklin Sq., Chatham Sq.. Canal St., Grand St., Riving- ton St., 1st, 8th. 14th. 19th, 23d, 34th, 42d, 50th, 57th, 65th, 72d, 81st, 86th, 92d, 99th, 105th, 111th, 117th, 121st, 127th and 129th Sts.

Third Ave. Line : Same as preceding to Chatham Sq., Canal St., Grand St., Houston St.. 9th, 14th, 18th, 23d, 28th, 34th, 42d, 47th, 53d, 59th, 67th, 76th, 84th, 89th, 99th, 106th, 116th, 125th and 129th Sts. The stations in the Bronx are 133d, 138th, 143d, 149th, 156th, 161st, 166th, 169th Sts., Wendover Ave., 174th, 177th or Tre- mont Ave., 180th, 183d Sts.. Pelham Ave. or Fordham, Bronx Park.

Sixth Ave. Line: South Ferrv, Battery PL. Rector St., Cort- landt St.. Park PI., Chambers, Franklin, Grand, Bleecker, 8th, 14th, 18th, 23d, 28th, 33d, 38th, 42d, 50th and 58th Sts. and Sixth Ave., 53d St. and Eighth Ave., 59th St. and Ninth Ave., 66th, 72d, 81st, 86th, 93d, 104th Sts. and Columbus Ave., 110th, 116th, 125th, 130th, 135th. 140th, 145th and 155th Sts. and Eighth Ave.

Ninth Ave. Line: South Ferry. Battery PI., Rector, Cort- landt, Barclay, Warren, Franklin, Desbrosses, Houston, Chris- topher, 14th, 23d, 30th, 34th, 42d, 50th, 59th Sts., and northward the same as on Sixth Ave. There is free transfer at South Ferry between East Side and West Side lines: transfers between Second and Third Aves., at Chatham Sq., 34th St. (shuttle), and 129th St, ; between Third Ave. line and subway at 149th St. ; between

10 K{)i<i's How to See New York.

Sixth Ave. and Ninth Ave., going south at 59th St., and at all junctions of main and shuttle lines. Fare, 5 cts.

The destination of trains is indicated by colored lamps car- ried at the head of the first car, by signs on the front of the first car and in the corner windows. Express trains are run during the rush hours on the Third Ave. line ; these make no stops between 42d and 116th or 129th, and but few stops south of 42d St. Expresses on Ninth Ave. make no stop between Chris- topher and 116th Sts. There are also "local expresses'' on this line, which make no stops between Christopher and 66th Sts.

SURFACE LINES on Manhattan Island are nearly all con- trolled by the New York Railways Company, whose cars are painted green, or the Third Ave. Railway Company, whose cars are painted red. Transfers are issued, by which the passenger can make two transfers, always going in the same direction over the cars of the same company. The destination of the cars is indi- cated by signs on the front and sides of the roof of the car, some- times by signs on the dashboard and hanging from the roof over the front platform.

Of the New York Railways Company's lines, the following will be of chief use to the visitor : Fourth and Aladison Aves., Broadway and branches, Sixth, Seventh, Eighth, and Ninth Aves.

The Fourth and Madison Ave. Line runs from Brooklyn Bridge through Centre St. to Grand St., to Bowery, to Fourth Ave., to 42d St., to Madison Ave., to 135th St. Some cars start at Broadway and Astor PI., joining main line at Fourth Ave. and Astor PI. A portion of the Fourth Ave. cars are operated to Brooklyn to and across the Williamsburg Bridge. These cars are marked "Brooklyn."

The Broadway Line follows four routes. The Broadway and Seventh Ave. line runs up Broadway to Seventh Ave., to 59th St. The Broadway and Amsterdam Ave. line follows the foregoing route to 53d St., then west to Ninth Ave, to Broadway, to Am- sterdam Ave. (at 71st St.), to 125th St. The Broadway and Co- lumbus Ave. line follows the route of the preceding line to 65th St., continues up Columbus Ave. to 109th St., to Manhattan Ave., to 116th St., to Lenox Ave., to 146th St. The Broadway and Lexing- ton Ave. line runs up Broadway to 23d St., to Lexington Ave., to 116th St. Cars marked "Broadway and Lexington Ave." proceed up Lexington Ave. to 130th St. Those marked ''Lexington and Lenox Aves." turn west at 116th St., to Lenox Ave., to 146th St. Some cars run north only as far as 99th St. Some of the south- bound cars on the four routes run only to Houston or Murray St., or Bowling Green.

King's IIozv to See Nezf York. 11

The Sixth Ave. Line runs from South Ferry through several short streets, to Barclay St., to VV. Broadway, to 4th St., to Sixth Ave., to 53d St., to Ninth Ave., following the route of the Broad- wav and Amsterdam Ave. line. Some cars on this line run on Sixth Ave. to 59th St.

The Seventh Ave. and Brooklyn Line starts at Williams- burg Bridge Plaza, over the Bridge, to Clinton St., through sev- eral East Side streets to 8th St., to Greenwich Ave., to Seventh Ave., then north to 59th St.

The Eighth Ave. Line follows the route of the Sixth Ave. line to W. Broadway, to Canal St., to Hudson St., to Eighth Ave. The cars marked "Polo Grounds'' run to Eighth Ave. and 159th St. Those marked ''Central Bridge" turn ofif at 150th St. into IMcComb's Dam Road to Central Bridge.

The Xinth Ave. Line runs on Washington and Greenwich Sts. from Cortlandt or Christopher St. to Ninth Ave., to 53d St.

The principal crosstown lines of this system pass through 8th, 14th, 23d, 34th, 8Gth, 116th and 145th Sts. There are horse car lines in the lower part of the city, passing through Chambers and ]\Iadison Sts., another through Houston and Prince Sts. ; another, now using storage battery cars, from Williamsburg Bridge through Spring and other streets, to Desbrosses St. Ferry.

Of the THIRD AVE. System, the principal line is the Third Ave. Line, which runs through Park Row, Bowery, Third Ave. to 125th St. Cars marked "Harlem" proceed to 129th St. Those marked "Fort George" turn west at 125th St. to Amsterdam Ave., to Fort George (198th St.). There are several important branches of this line. One starts at the Post Office, follows the main line to Grand St., to Clinton St., to Delancey St., and across Williams- burg Bridge. Another starts at the foot of E. 125th St., runs on 125th St. to Amsterdam Ave., to 161st St., to Broadway, to Kings- bridge (225th St.).

The Brg.adway Line starts from 42d St. and Tenth Ave., runs north on Tenth Ave. to Broadway at 72d St., to Manhattan St., to Fort Lee Ferry.

The crosstown lines of this svstem pass through Grand St., 28th and 29th Sts., 42d St., 110th St. and 125th St.^ Some of the 42d St. cars run to E. 34th St. Ferry, others up Third Ave. to 59th St. and across the Queensboro Bridge.

Two crosstown lines controlled by this system transfer to all lines but do not issue second transfers. They are the 59th St. line and the Manhattan Bridge line, which crosses the bridge from Brooklyn and passes through Canal St. westward to Desbrosses St. Ferry.

12

Ki)ig's Hozl' to Sec Nezu York.

STAGES. The Fifth Ave. Coach Company runs a line of motor omnibuses on Fifth Ave., Riverside Drive and other streets.

The Fifth Ave. Line starts at Washington Sq., runs north on Fifth Ave. to 110th St., to Seventh Ave., to 145th St. Some of the 'buses run only to 90th St. The time of the whole trip, about 50 min ; to 90th St., only about 35 min. Below 90th St. the 'buses run every 3 or 4 mm. The 145th St. 'buses carry on the front a white destination sign with black letters, the 90th St. ones a white sign with green letters.

The Riverside Drive Line starts at Washington Sq., runs north on Fifth Ave., to 57th St., to Broadway, to W. 72d St., to Riverside Drive, to 96th St. From 3.45 to 11 p. m., these 'buses continue up Riverside to 135th St., to Broadway. Running time to 135th St., about 55 min. ; to 96th St., about 40 min. ; leaving every 5 or 10 min. These 'buses carry a red sign with white letters.

The Pennsylvania Station Line starts from the Seventh Ave. entrance of the station, runs east on 32d St. to Fifth Ave. and the preceding route to 135th St. and Broadway. The 'buses leave every 5 or 10 min., and make the trip in about 45 min. They carry a black sign with white letters.

A most agreeable mode of transportation for sight-seeing purposes is the open automobile. One of the most popular Auto Renters is KENNEDY & SHELLEY, located at 164 W. 46th St., just east of Broadway. Day or night service can be had by tele-

BROOKLYN BKlLiCE.

phoning Bryant 366 or 339. Either open or closed Packard cars can be hired by the hour, day or week at reasonable rates, which may be had on application.

TAXICABS will be found at all the hotels and on public stands in many parts of the city. The legal rate is, for two persons, 30

Ki)ig's Hozv to See Nezu York.

n

cts. for first half mile, and 10 cts. for each succeeding quarter mile; for three or more passengers, 40 cts. for first half mile, and 10 cts. for each succeeding one-sixth mile. For waiting time, the charge is $1..50 per hour. For horse cabs, the legal rate is 50 cts. for first mile, and 20 cts. for each succeeding half mile.

MANII.VTTAX DRIDCi:.

FERRIES. With the opening of the subway to Brooklyn and the new bridges across the East River, the East River ferries, except South Ferry, are but little used by foot passengers. The East River ferries, from the Battery northward, are :

Ham.ilton Ave. Ferry, Whitehall St., to Hamilton Ave., Brooklyn ; South Ferry, foot of Whitehall St., to Atlantic Ave., Brooklyn; 39th St. Ferry, foot of Whitehall St., to 39th St., Brooklyn; Wall St. Ferry, foot of Wall St., to Montague St., Brooklyn; Fulton St. Ferry, foot of Fulton St., to Fulton St., Brooklyn ; Roosevelt St. Ferry, foot of Roosevelt St., to Broadway, Brooklyn ; Houston St. Ferry, foot of Houston St., to Grand St., Brooklyn ; Greenpoint Ferry, E. 10th St., to Greenpoint Ave., Brooklyn ; 23d St. Ferrv, foot of E. 23d St., to Greenpoint Ave., Brooklyn; 23d St. Ferry, foot of E. 23d St., to Broadway, Brooklyn; Long Island Railroad Ferry, foot of E. 34th St., to Borden Ave., Long Island City (Hunter's Point) ; Astoria Ferry, foot of E. 92d St.. to Fulton Ave., Long Island City (Astoria) ; College Point Ferry, foot of E. 99th St., to North Beach and College Point ; College Point Ferry, foot of E. 134th St. to College Point (not in winter).

The ferries across the Hudson River, except the one to Fort Lee from foot of IManhattan St. and W. 130th St., are operated by railroads having terminals on the Jersey side.

The Pennsylvania Railroad has ferries at Cortlandt and Des-

14 King's How to See New York.

brosses Sts., to its old terminal at Montgomery St., Jersey City.

Erie Railroad, from Chambers and W. 23d Sts., to Pavonia Ave., Jersey City.

Central Railroad of Xevv Jersey, from Liberty and W. 23d Sts., to Communipaw.

Delaware, Lackawanna & Western Railroad, from Barclay, Christopher and W. 23d Sts., to Hoboken.

West Shore Railroad, from Cortlandt and 42d Sts., to Wee- hawken.

Other ferries are the 3ilunicipal Ferries, foot of Whitehall St., to St. George and Stapleton, Staten Island, and to 39th St., Brook- lyn, the Government F'erry at the Battery to Ellis Island (the immigrant landing-place), a Government Ferry adjoining the lat- ter to Governor's Island, a ferry from the Battery to the Statue of

WILLIAMSBURG BRIDGE.

Liberty, and city ferries from E. 26th St., E. 53d St., E. 70th St. and E. 126th St. to Blackwell's Island and other islands in the East River holding city institutions.

The visitor will have little use for the ferries except the Municipal Ferry to Staten Island. This ferry, which is owned by the city, has the largest and fastest ferry boats in the world, and the trip across the bay, lasting 20 minutes, is one of the most delightful short sails from Manhattan Island. Fare, 10 cents for round trip.

The HUDSON TUNNELS form the latest connecting link between New York and the New Jersey railroad terminals, steam- ship piers and trolley lines covering the metropolitan district. The main line of the Hudson and Manhattan Railroad extends from the Hudson Terminal at Cortlandt St., New York, under the Hudson River to Exchange PL, Jersey City, thence westerly to Grove St., and thence to Summit Ave. Joint service wnth the

King's Hozv to See Xezv York.

15

Pennsylvania Railroad is operated over the above route, and thence bv trackage agreement over the Pennsylvania line to Park PI, Xevv'ark. ^ ,. , , ,

P>om Exchange PI., Jersey City, a hne extends northerly under the Erie Railroad Terminal to the Delaware, Lackawanna & Western Railroad Terminal in Hoboken. Erom a point near lloboken another line extends easterly under the Hudson River to Christopher St. and Sixth Ave., New York, and thence northerly with stations at Christopher St., near Greenwich, 9th, 14th, 19th, 23d and 28th Sts. on Sixth Ave., to the termmal at Broadway and 33d St.

BRIDGES Four great bridges cross the East River, and 12 cross the Harlem River. The famous Brooklyn Bridge, from Park Row and City Hall Park to Fulton and Sands Sts., Brook-

lyn, opened in 1883, is now the smallest of the East River bridges. Its total length is 6,016 feet ; width, 85 feet ; height at center over the river, 135 feet; height of towers above hi.^h water, 272 feet. It took 13 years to build and cost $15,000,000. Since its opening, about $8,000,000 have been spent on improvements.

Manhattan Bridge, from Bowery and Canal St. to Nassau and Bridge Sts., Brooklyn, is the greatest suspension bridge in the world. It is 6,855 feet long, 122 feet 6 inches wide, the elevation at the center above high water is 135 feet and the steel towers are 336 feet high. It was begun in 1901, opened in 1909, cost about $14,000,000, besides $12,000,000 for land for approaches.

Williamsburg Bridge, from Delanccy and Clinton Sts., to the olaza at New St., Brooklyn, is 7..308 feet long, 118 feet wide and the towers are 335 feet high. It was begun in 1896, opened in 1903, cost $14,000,000 and $9,000,000 for land.

QuEENSBORo BRIDGE, from Sccoud Ave. and 59th St. to Jackson

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THE CITY OF NEW YORK. Total area, 31(5 s(|. niih's. Taxable property, land tioii, !t^l.T0<).620,4.j:j. Parks. 7,1)40 acres. Cemeteries, 2,155 acres. Leui^tb of st 16

prdvements.SS.dO'i.GiT.SGl ; personalty. .S:'.25.41S.440; real estate exempt from taxa- 720 miles. Leimth of ^vater front, 444 miles. Total wharfage space, 306 miles.

li

18

King's Huiv to See New York

Ave., Long Island City, is the second in length and the first in weight and carrying capacity of the world's cantilever bridges. It is 8,600 feet long. 89^ feet wide, with a roadway 535^:; feet wide; begun 1901. opened 1909. cost $1:5,500,000 and $4,500,000 for land.

WASHINGTON AND HIGH BRIDGES. Harlem River.

Trolley lines cross all four bridges, and Brooklyn elevated trains cross Brooklyn and Williamsburg bridges, and will cross the other two.

The bridges across the Harlem River are :

Willis Ave. Bridge, from First Ave. and 12.5th St. to Willis Ave. and 134th St. ; foot and vehicles. Elevated Railroad Bridge, from Second Ave. and 129th St. to Lincoln Ave. ; foot and "L" road ; Third Ave. Bridge, Third Ave. and 129th St., to Third Ave. and 136th St. ; trollev, foot and vehicles. New York Central R. R. Bridge, from Park Ave. and 133d St. to Park Ave. and 138th St.; railroad. AIadison Ave. Bridge, from Madison Ave. and 137th St. to Cromwell Ave., 138th St.; foot, vehicles and trol- ley. 145TH St. Bridge, from Lenox Ave. and 145th St. to Exterior St. and 149th St. : foot, vehicles and trolley. IMcComb's Dam Bridge, from Seventh Ave. and 155th St. to Jerome Ave. and 162d St. ; foot, vehicles and trolley. Putnam Railroad Bridge, from Eighth Ave. and 157th St. to Sedgwick Ave. and 161st St.; foot and railroad. High Bridge, near Amsterdam Ave. and 174th St., to Aqueduct Ave. and 170th St. ; foot. Washington Bridge, Amsterdam Ave. and 181st St., to Aqueduct Ave. and 172d St. ; foot, vehicles and trolley. University Heights Bridge, W. 207th St., Manhattan, to 184th St.; foot, vehicles and trolley. Farmers' Bridge, across Spuyten Duvvil Creek, at 223d St., to West King's Bridge Road ; foot and vehicles. King's Bridge, across Spuyten Duyvil Creek at Broadway and 230th St.; foot, vehicle and "L"'

King's Hoiv to See Neiv York. 19

road. Foot Bridge, across Spuyten Duyvil Creek just west of King's Bridge; foot. Spuyten Duyvil Bridge, mouth of Harlem Ship Canal at Hudson River ; railroad. Harlem Ship Canal Bridge, across Harlem Ship Canal at Broadway and 221st St. ; foot, "L" road and vehicle.

Willis Ave. Bridge has an approach from 133d St. and Brown PL, Bronx; Third Ave. Bridge has an approach from 130th St. and Lexington Ave. ; Madison Ave. Bridge has an approach from 138th St. and Fifth Ave. ; Central Bridge has a viaduct approach from 155th St. and St. Nicholas Ave.; Central Bridge has a via- duct approach from 161st St. and Cromwell Ave., Bronx.

The only bridges of especial interest are High Bridge, a granite structure of 14 arches, the foot walk, 116 feet above the river, carrying the pipes of the original Croton Aqueduct; McComb's Dam Bridge, with its viaduct approaches, and Washington Bridge, considered to be the most beautiful of the city's bridges. It con- sists of two steel arches, each having a span of 510 feet and a height of 135 feet. The bridge, with its approaches, is 2,399 feet long, 86 feet wide and cost $2,700,000.

DISTANXES. The distance from the Battery to City Hall, is 34 mile, from City Hall to Houston St. along Broadway one mile. Along Broadway the distance from Houston St. to 23d St. is VA miles; from 23d St. to 59th St. two miles, the whole distance from the Battery to Central Park, at 59th St. and Broadway, being five miles.

Along the avenues 20 blocks are a mile, and between avenues 7 blocks are about a mile. The distance from Fifth Ave. to the river on either side is from 1 to lU miles.

HOTELS. To give a list of the hundreds of hotels in New York Citv would simply bewilder the stranger. The hotel dis- trict in which most of the large hotels are found lies between Broadway and Park Ave., from 24th to 59th St. Many have world-wide reputations, others not so well known have distinc- tive characteristics, still others do not advertise extensively, yet in appointments, meals and hotel facilities satisfy the most exacting.

An arbitrary classification may be made: Into ultrafash- ionable, having a minimum rate for a room of $3 a day; fashion- able, with a minimum rate of $2.50 ; first-class, with a minimum rate of $2 ; good, with a minimum rate of $1.50, and fair, with a minimum rate of $1. Room with bath usually costs from 50 cts. to $1 more. There are, however, excellent hotels which have a few small rooms for which a charge of $1 is made, while some hotels with a minimum rate of $2.50 possess no other advantage over cheaper hotels than an old reputation or a fashionable loca-

20 Kvi.^'s Hoiv to See Neiv York.

tion. Fashionable, in this classification, does not necessarily imply that the hotel is patronized by "society folks." Some, like the Manhattan and the Belmont, near Grand Central Station, attract mainly business people who desire the best hotel accom- modations obtainable, yet want to stay near the railroad station. Others, like the Marie Antoinette, Ansonia, Bretton Hall, Ma- jestic and similar great houses on upper Broadway (north of 59th St.) and Central Park West are really family hotels cater- ing mainly to permanent patrons, though having accommoda- tions for transient guests.

The Martha Washington Hotel, on 29th St., near Fifth Ave., is a good hotel exclusively for women, the restaurant alone being open to men.

A few hotels near Broadway and 42d St. attract a sporting element, while some have a large theatrical patronage. The vicious "Raines' law'' hotels, which the police occasionally raid, are usually small establishments outside of the hotel district.

Visitors should select their stopping-place either from the experience of friends or from advertisements before their arrival. Never leave the choice to the hack or taxicab driver. In a few instances two hotels have the same name, or similar names. The famous Belmont Hotel is on 42d St., opposite Grand Central Station, and another house having the same name is on 4.5th St. The fashionable Cumberland Hotel on Broadway and 54th St. has a lowly namesake on Third Ave. Churchill's is a famous restaurant at Broadway and 49th St. ; Churchill Hotel is a small house at Broadway and 14th St. A list of the best hotels will be found on pages 182 and 183.

RESTAURANTS are attached to almost all hotels and hundreds are scattered over the city. A few hotels are run on the American plan, the rate including meals, but the visitor whose time is limited will have little opportunity to return to the hotel for lunch or dinner if he wishes to do much sight-seeing.

There is a wider range in the character and class of restau- rants than of hotels. Delmonico's, Sherry's and the restaurants attached to the fashionable hotels are quiet, refined, with cuisine and service unsurpassed and charges high. In others with equally high charges more attention is paid to the surroundings, music and side shows than to the quality, quantity and service of the m.eals. There is music in the evening in almost all good res- taurants, but some have in addition a cabaret performance, dancing, singing, and some have unique attractions or surround- ings. It is an interesting experience to take dinner under the rafters, in a cellar surrounded by wine casks, in a room repre-

Ki)ig's IIozc to Sec Xcii' York. 21

senting a jungle, or the dining-hall of an old German Rathhaus. The stranger visits these places under the impression that he is seeing life in New York, but the New Yorker rarely visits them except when taking his country cousin sightseeing. Many res- taurants, advertise low-priced table d'hote meals, but some fail to state that such meals are furnished only during certain hours, and at other times meals are furnished a la carte and the prices are then high. In restalirants furnishing low-priced table d'hote meals with wine, a drinkable quality of wine is usually supplied at a slight extra cost. Among the prominent show places in the hotel district are Shanley's, Chnrchiirs, Lorber's, Maxim's, Rei- senweber's, Faust's and Healy's, all on or near Broadway. These are popular resorts for after-theatre parties and are usually crowded from 11 P. M to 1 A. M.

There are a number of foreign restaurants in New York, some of which are well worth a visit. Among the German res- taurants are Liichow's, on 14th St., and Allaire's, on 17th St., quiet, not gaudv nor elaborate, but good. The Hofbriiuhaus, the Kaiserhof and 'the Wiirzlnirger Hofbrauhaus are elaborate show places. Bustanoby's and the Parisian are elaborate French restaurants, with cabaret performances and dancing as attrac- tions. Mouquin's, Bosquet and the Rotisserie are quiet, unosten- tatious French restaurants, where the food and prices rather than the side shows attract patrons. The large American restaurants generally furnish French and Italian dishes. The best-known Italian restaurants are the Roma. Moretti, Colaizzi, Guffanti, Roversi, Carlos, all near Broadway, and Gonfarone. The Roma is the mose elaborate of these. Spanish restaurants are found on 14th St., west of Sixth Ave., and 23d St., west of Eigth Ave. ; they are generally small places. Hungarian restaurants are found in the Hungarian section on low^er Second Ave., and east- ward. The best known are Little Hungary and Cafe Boheme. In the hotel district is Barth's.

The Albemarle-Hoffman. on 24th St.. makes a specialty of English cooking. The Ritz-Carlton. which follows in style and methods its ultrafashionable namesake in London, has a^ similar restaurant. A few drop houses, like Browne's and Keene's, make a specialty of English dishes. The Hotel Athens, on E. 42d St., supplies Greek dishes to order. There are a number of Chmese restaurants in the hotel district, Kennedy's, the Tokio and the Pekin being elaborate show places, with Oriental fixings and Broadway cabaret attachments. There are several elaborate Chine<5e restaurants in the Chinese quarter, those most frequently visited bv whites being the Tuxedo. Port Arthur, Delmonico

22 King's Hozv to See Nezv York.

and Mandarin. These, as well as the foreign restaurants in the hotel section, are really show places for strangers, the restaurants patronized by the foreigners themselves being located in the for- eign quarters.

Lunch rooms are scattered all over the city, Child's alone having 46. These furnish light meals at a low price. The tea rooms, a recent innovation, supplying light meals during the day and patronized mainly by women, are found in the women's shopping district. One of the best is the Scotch Tea Room, at No. 31 W. 46th St. The historic associations connected with Fraunce's Tavern in Broad St., the quaint surroundings of Ye Olde Taverne, in Duane St., and the views from the Garret Res- taurant make these the most interesting restaurants in the lower part of the city.

AMUSEMENTS. There are 115 theatres, including five roof gardens, in Manhattan, with a seating capacity of about 155,000 and a weekly attendance of about 1,000,000. There are 800 mo- tion picture shows, wnth a daily attendance of not far from a quarter million. Besides these there are 34 theatres and several hundred motion-picture show^s in Brooklyn, half a dozen amuse- ment beaches, including Coney Island, which has had days when half a million visitors were carried to it by car and boat. There are hundreds of dance halls, amusement grounds, exhibition halls, athletic fields, recreation centers and piers, etc.

Theatres. The Hippodrome, with a stage 200 ft. long and 110 ft. deep, is one of the sights of the city. The summer visitor should visit one of the roof gardens, several of which are within a short distance of Times Sq. The Metropolitan Opera House is world famous. The Century Theatre is one of the most mag- nificent in the country. The Little Theatre, on W. 44th St., is a unique place, having a seating capacity of 299. Philipp's and the Irving Place Theatres give performances in German. The Knickerbocker, New York, New Amsterdam and Casino Thea- tres have stages suitable for a large chorus and generally present musical comedies. The Princess gives four or five one-act plays at each performance. The Winter Garden usuallv presents a conglomeration of musical comedy, farce and ballet, with a large chorus and a few famous dancers and comedians. The Empire pre- sents light comedies. The Vitagraph, formerly the Criterion, now shows motion pictures. On and near the Bowery are several large theatres, giving plays in the German-Jewnsh iar^on. There are eight vaudeville and six burlesque houses in Manhattan, and many of the moving-picture houses give vaudeville performances. The Eden Musee has an interesting exhibition of wax figures.

King's IIozc to Sec Neiv York. 23

Madison Square Garden houses the circus, wild west show, horse show, fairs and exhibitions. Grand Central Palace is another huge exhibition hall, and fairs and exhibitions are occasionally held in armories. These are advertised in the daily press.

Concerts are usually given in theatres on Sunday evenings, but the so-called sacred concerts given at the vaudeville and bur- lesque theatres on Sundays are really vaudeville performances without stage make-up. The classical concerts given by the Philharmonic, Oratorio and other musical societies are held m Carnegie Hall, Carnegie Lyceum, Mendelssohn Hall and other halls especially adapted for such purpose. During the summer months public open-air concerts are given in the parks and on the recreation piers. These piers are owned by the city and have an upper floor with benches, a band stand and various amuse- ments for children.

Athletic Fields. The Polo Grounds, where the profes- sional baseball games and big college football games are held, are at Eighth Ave. and l.")')th St. The New York Athletic Club has priva^'te grounds on Travers Island in Long Island Sound, iu<;t bevond^the city limits. The Pastime Athletic Club has grounds' at the foot of E. 90th St. The Irish- American Athletic Club generally holds its games at Celtic Park, just beyond the borough line of Brooklyn. The fashionable Crescent Athletic Club, of Brooklyn, has grounds at the foot of 85th St., Brooklyn. Ebbett's Field, the home grounds of the Brooklyn Baseball Club, is at Montgomery and Bedford Ayes., Brooklyn. There are 10 other athletic fields in Manhattan and Bronx, and 26 in Brooklyn and Queens. ^Tany of the smaller public parks con- tain gymnasium apparatus and the large parks contain ath- letic fields, ball grounds, tennis courts, golf links and grounds for other sports. There is skating in winter on the lakes in Central Park, Crotona Park, Van Cortlandt Park and Pros- pect Park, and curling on the small lake in Central Park.

The Aviation Field is at Mineola, about 20 miles from City Hall, reached by Long Island Railroad from Pennsylvania Station. _ , ^

Horse races are held at Brighton Beach Race Track, Conev Island, Belmont Park, just beyond the city line at Queens, and at Empire track, Yonkers. Indoor races and games are held at Madison Square Garden and the armories. Outdoor bicycle and motorcvcle races are held at Brighton Beach. .

Rowing races are held on Harlem River. Other sporting events, like billiards, bowling and chess tournaments, are held in various halls, as announced in the papers.

Broad

roaa\\^ay

BROADWAY, the most famous street in America, begins at the Battery and runs northward throughout the length of Manhattan Island and through the Bronx to the city limits at Yonkers. The street is really part of the old Albany Post Road, which extends to Albany, a distance of 150 miles.

The street may be roughly divided into the financial section south of City Hall, the wholesale section between City Hall and Houston St., wholesale and retail section between Houston and 23d Sts. ; the theatre, hotel and shopping section, familiarly known as the "Great White Way," between 2?.d St. and 59th St. North of 59th St., it is a street of magnificent hotels and apart- ment houses, a few theatres and but little business aside from automobile concerns just above 59th St.

At the corner of Battery PI., and facing the Battery, is the red brick WASHINGTON BUILDING, one of the earliest of the skyscrapers, built by Cyrus W. Field. It occupies the site of the Kennedy Mansion, which stood here from 1745 to 1882. Dur- ing the Revolution it was the headquarters of Washington, Putnam. Howe, Cornwallis and other American and British commanders, and later became the Washington Hotel. Adjoining it is the 19-story Bowling Green Building. The magnificent marble entrance hall, with a pictured glass screen at the end, is well worth seeing. On this site stood Livingston and Van Cortlandt man- sions, the former being occupied bv the traitor Benedict Arnold during his stay in New York, The old STEVENS HOUSE, at the corner of Morris St., was once the most fashionable hotel in the city. Here was celebrated the marriage of Daniel Webster's daughter, the most noted social event of its day. and later the public reception of Jenny Lind by ]\Iayor Woodhull. On the northwest corner is the Columbia Building, and a few doors above, at No. 45, is Aldrich Court, with an elaboratelv carved facade. A tablet on its wall states that it was the site of the first habitation of white men on Manhattan Island. It is also the site of the McComb House, the official residence of President Washington in 1790.

On the opposite side of the street, north of Beaver St., is the Welles Building, with a rose granite front, and adioining it is the STANDARD OIL BUILDING, the home of the great oil concern. Structurally it is one of the most interesting in the city. The original building was nine stories high. It was decided to 24

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Realty City Invest'g Singer Woolworth Am. Ex. Nat. liauk Municipal SINGER BUILDING AND BROADWAY. NORTH. 2.j

26 King's How to See New York.

add six stories, but it was found that the building could not support the additional weight. The adjoining building was purchased and torn down, and a 15-story steel frame building was erected. From the upper stories a cantilever projection was constructed, extend- ing over the old building, and the additional six stories were built upon this structure. What is now apparently a single building, is in reality two buildings — a 15-story and a 9-story buildnig, the latter having six additional floors resting upon it, but supported by the larger building. Just beyond is the 20-story office building. No. 42 Broadway. The Exchange Court Building is on the south corner of Exchange PI., and on the other corner the Columbia-Knickerbocker Trust Building. On the west side is the new Adams Express Building, 32 stories, 486 feet high, and the Empire Building, corner of Rector St., with arcade to Sixth Ave. Elevated station. Opposite, at No. 66, is the Manhattan Life Insurance Building, 246 feet high, above which is a tower 102 feet high, the beautiful Union Trust Building adjoining, and the 'severely plain, dark red brick building at the southern corner of Wall St. This building has 18 stories, is 217 feet high and occu- pies a lot 30 by 30. The lot cost, in 1906, $654,456, or $576 a square foot. At this rate an acre would cost over $1,500,000, which was for many years the record rate for any piece of land. The ground floor and basement pay an annual rental of $40,000. At No. 2 Rector St., back of the" churchyard, is the 23-story U. S. Express Building.

North of Rector St. is TRINITY CHURCH, the oldest Epis- copal church in the city. The congregation, organized in 1697, received from the crown a grant of land extending from about Fulton St. to Canal St., between Broadway and Hudson River. Although the church sold and gave away large tracts in this grant, it still owns property the stated value of which is over $17,600,000, the actual value being probably far in excess of this. The present building, erected in 1846, is a Gothic brown-stone structure, its steeple rising to a height of 284 feet. The reredos, 20 'feet high, a magnificent altar and the bronze doors, holding panels illustrating Biblical subjects, were gifts of the Astor fam- ily. The altar is 11 feet long, divided into panels, the central panel being a cross in mosaic, set with cameos. Standing at the head of Wall St., within a few feet of the Stock Exchange, no greater contrast can be imagined than the solemn stillness within the edifice and the noise and bustle outside.

Surrounding the church is Trinity Churchyard, one of the few burial grounds remaining on Alanhattan Island. Here are buried Alexander Hamilton, Robert Fulton, Albert Gallatin, Captain

Trinity Churchyard

TRINITY CHURCH.

Trinity Church

28

AM 1 : i;

128

ICAX i:XC'llAX(,K NAllO-XAL 1;AM> Bruadway, nurtheast curuer Cedar St.

Kin^^'s llozv to See Neiv York. 29

Lawrence and his Lieutenant, Ludlow, who were killed in the Chesapeake-Shannon fight ; Stephen Dclancey, several Colonial Governors and members of their families. Lord Sterling, General Kearney, Francis Lewis, John Lamb and other famous New York- ers. Opposite the head of Pine St. is the Martyrs' Monument, erected in memory of the patriots who died in the British prison ships. The oldest gravestone is dated 1681, and some contain curious epitaphs.

North of the Churchyard stands the 21-story Trinity Building, with beautiful Gothic fagades fronting on Broadway and the Churchyard, and adjoining this and built in the same style is the United States Realty Building. These two buildings, with the land, cost $15,000,000. On the east side of the street stand the L^nited Bank Building, corner Wall St., the 23-story American Surety Building, corner Cedar St., and between them the 7-story Schermerhorn Building, belonging to the Astor family. When the American Surety Building was completed, it was found that a cornice at the 22d floor extended over the air space of the Schermerhorn Building. To protect the cornice and prevent the erection of a high building, which would cut off the light and air, the owners of the Surety leased the smaller building for 99 years at an annual rental of $75,000.

The block between Pine and Cedar Sts. was formerly occupied by the famous EQUITABLE LIFE ASSURANCE BUILDING, which was destroyed by fire in Jan., 1912. A new 36-story build- ing is being erected on this site, which in point of size will be the largest in the world.

On the northeast corner of Cedar St. is the AMERICAN ENCHANGE NATIONAL BANK, 128 Broadway; the fine banking and office building, 16 stories, 235 feet in height, with 47,440 square feet of floor space on a plot of 4,508 square feet, was erected in 1901. This bank, founded in 1838, and nationalized in 1865, has total resources in excess of $70,000,000, its capital and surplus being nearly $10,000,000. Lewis L. Clarke is president. Adjoining it is the new building of the Guaranty Trust Company, opposite which, at No. 141, is the Washington Life Building. Two buildings on the block above. Liberty to Cortlandt Sts.. are among the greatest in the city. The much-pictured SINGER BUILDING contains 41 stories and 6 in the cupola, and rises to a height of 612 feet above the street. It contains 9^/ acres floor space, and at night it is lighted bv 15.000 electric lights. The tower rests on 36 caissons sunk to bed rock 92 feet below the curb and is anchored with eye bars to withstand a wind pressure of 30 pounds per square foot. Not a particle of wood was used in its construction. The

30

EQUITABLE BUILDING. Broadway to Nassau St., Piue to Cedar St.

King's Hoiv to See New York.

31

adjoining City Investing Building is ?A stories, 418 feet high and contains l^A acres of floor space. Opposite is the large building of the Lawyers' Title Insurance and Trust Company. On the corner is the Broadway-INIaiden Lane Building?, while just above is the six-story building of the Title Guarantee Trust Company. On the northwest corner of Dey St. is the building of the Western Lnion Telegraph Company. A time-ball drops precisely at noon each day down a pole erected on the tower of this building.

On the west side of Broadway, between Fulton and Vesey Sts stands ST. PAUL'S CHAPEL, the oldest church building on Manhattan Island. It was erected by Trinity Church between 1764 and 1766 in what was then a wheat field on the church farm, the front facmg the river, the rear facing the street. After the great fire of 1776. which destroyed Trinity Church, and until 1790 when the new Trinity Church was opened, St. Paul's was the principal church in the city. The pew occupied by Washinoton IS marked by the shield of the United States on the wall, and on the opposite side of the church is the pew occupied by Governor Clinton, marked by the shield of the State. The body of General Richard :\Iontgomery, killed at the unsuccessful storming of Que- bec on Christmas Day, 1775, lies behind the chancel. A cenotaph to his memory stands outside against the Broadway side of the wall. Among those buried in the churchyard are Colonel Beverly Robinson, Thomas Addis Emimet, Dr. William J. :\lacXevin, etc.

Opposite St. Pa-ul's Chapel is the marble front of the National ^ark Bank, and at the corner of Ann St. is the 26-story St Paul Building, on the site of the Herald Building. The block from Vesey bt. to Barclay was occupied by the Astor House, once New lorks most famous hotel, erected 1836, closed 1913, and partially demolished to allow new subway to be constructed.

On the block above is the WOOLWORTH BUILDING, the highest and perhaps the most beautiful ofiice building in the world It is_ 57 stories. 792 feet high. The observation gallery is open to visitors, admission 50 cts. On the ninth floor are the rooms of the Merchants' Association, an organization whose aim is to foster the trade and welfare of New York. Visitors are welcome Jonas & Co., on the ground floor, sell theatre tickets and souvenirs. ^Opposite the Woolworth Building stands the New York Post Office, described in Chapter 7, and, to the north. City Hall Park, described in the same chapter.

At the upper corner of Murray St. is the Postal Telegraph Building, and adjoining it is the building of the Home Life Insur- ance Company. On the block between Warren and Chambers Sts. js the inconspicuous low marble building of the Chemical National

WOOLWORTH BUILDING. Broailway. Barclay St. to Park Place.

Kiiiji's How to See New York. 33

Bank, and adjoinini^ it, corner Chambers St.. is the Shoe and Leather Branch of the Metropolitan Bank. From Chambers St. northward for about a mile the street is given over principally to wholesale trade, with a few large office buildings at the lower end.

The Stewart Building, occupying the block from Chambers to Reade Sts., is the remodeled building erected in 184G by A. T. Stewart for his dry goods store. It is now an office building and holds many of the city departments, which will occupy the great Municipal Building now nearing completion, at the northeast corner of City Hall Park. At the northwest corner of Chambers St. and Broadway is the 18-story Broadway Chambers, on the site of the Irving House, erected in 1840 and occupied for more than 20 years by Dclmonico's Restaurant. On the next block are the East River Savings Bank Building and the Barclay Building on the left and the Dun Building on the right.

Going north from Duane St., the next street on the west side is Thomas St.. a public thoroughfare owned by the New York Hospital. To maintain its claim for proprietorship, the street is closed for one day every year. At Worth St. is a house having eight ft. frontage, the smallest on Broadway. Corner Leonard St. is the magnificent marble building of the New York Life Insur- ance Company. Among the tenants of this building is Bradstreet's, the general and local offices being on the second to fourth floors.

The block from Lispenard to Canal St., long occupied by the Brandreth Building, will soon be occupied by a new building. At the northwest corner of Canal St. and Broadway stands the house once the residence of Alayor Costar, now used for commerce and offices. The house, except the ground floor, has been little changed and well illustrates the fashionable residence of the early '30's. The old Prescott House, corner Spring St., now an office and commercial building, formerly a noted hotel, is on the site of the historian Prescott's residence. Adjoining it was the residence of John Jacob Astor.

The buildings between Canal and 14th Sts. are less interesting as a rule than their occupants, many of the latter being among the most famous in the business world. Of the buildings that may attract attention one is the massive granite warehouse of Charles Broadway Rouss, between Spring and Prince Sts.

J. Fenimore Cooper lived at No. 595. This was a fashionable residential section during the '40's. At the northeast corner of Bleecker St. is the Manhattan Savings Institution, which in Oct., 1878, was robbed of $2,000,000 by burglars. Near Bond St. is the Broadway Central Hotel, opened in 1869.

An immense business house occupies the site of New York

34 King's Hozv to See New York.

Hotel, from Washington PI. to Waverly PI. Nearly opposite, from about 724 to 730, is a vacant lot, part of which was once occupied by the Church of the Messiah. It became an amusement resort in 1869, and from that time until it was torn down, in 1903, it was known as an unlucky spot. For twelve years various theatrical productions failed, and after Harrigan and Hart had had a few successful plays there it burned to the ground in 1884. Rebuilt in imitation of old London Streets, it continued to be an unfortunate site for amusements until no one would use it for the purpose. It has been vacant for ten years. An odd sign over a glove store opposite Astor PL, used as a trade mark, will attract attention. The next two blocks, from 8th to 10th St., are occupied by WANA- MAKER'S department store, the largest in the world. The new store is 14 stories high. The old store, from 9th to 10th Sts., was opened by A. T. Stewart in 1862, was at that time the finest estab- lishment of its kind in the country and was considered so far from the shopping district that people would not go that far north. Opposite, corner of 8th St., is the store of John Daniell Sons & Sons.

At the northeast corner of 10th St. is GRACE CHURCH. This beautiful structure, with its pretty close and outdoor pulpit on the south and rectory and rectory lawn on the north, is one of the most pleasing bits of church architecture in the city. Note the ancient Roman terra cotta vase in the rectory yard. Near it is an ancient sun dial. At 11th St. is St. Denis Hotel, one of the few remaining hotels of the time when this was the fashionable hotel district. Opposite is F'leischmann's Bakery and Restaurant, where the "bread line" forms nightly about 11.30 to receive a half loaf of bread ; this is now a much-appreciated charity

UNION SQUARE extends from 14th to 17th St.; the west side is Broadway, the east side Fourth Ave. It was arranged on the city plan of 1811 and contains about 3^ acres. In it are a central fountain, an equestrian statue of Washington at the south- east corner, a statue of Lincoln at the southwest corner and a statue of Lafayette, by Bartholdi, between the two, facing down Broadway. On the west side of the square is a fine bronze drink- ing fountain, presented to the city by D. Willis James. Of the buildings surrounding the square, the most noticeable are the Everett Building, 17tli St. and Fourth Ave. ; the Germania Life Building on the opposite corner and the Bank of the Metropolis at 16th St. and Broadway. The old Domestic Building, on the east corner of 14th St., and the building formerly occupied by Tiffany & Co.. corner of 15th St., are good examples of the iron front architec- ture of 40 years ago. From 17th to 23d Sts. there are mainly high-class retail concerns, the store signs announcing such well-

Kins''s Ho-iC to Sec ^'cu< York

35

known names as Aitken, Ar- nold Constable Company. Lord & Taylor, Brooks Brothers, but they are rapidly moving uptown.

A number of skyscrapers have invaded this stretch, in- cluding the 20-story building at 20th St., and a 22-story building at 21st St., and the remarkable Fuller Building, generally called the FLAT- IROX BUILDING. This 20-story structure rises to a height of 286 ft. and stands on a triangular plot, the 22d St. base being 92 ft. long, the Broadway side 224 ft. and the Fifth Ave. side 206 ft.

MADISON SQUARE lies between Aladison Ave. on the east and Broadway and Fifth Ave. on the west, from 23d to 26th St., and covers an area of about 7 acres. It has stat- ues of Arthur, Conkling, Seward and a much-admired statue of Farragut. The Worth Monument covers the remains of Major-General Worth, of Mexican War fame. Once the center of wealth and fashion, but two or three of the fash- ionable residences that once surrounded it remain, and of the many hotels only the Albe- marle and the Hofifman House are left. The block from 23d to 24th St., now occupied by the FIFTH AVE. BUILD- ING, w^as for many years a hotel site. When this locality was a suburb of New York, Corporal Thompson's Madi-

FLATIKOX r.riLI)IN(

36 King's Hozv to See New York.

son Cottage stood on this site and offered hospitality to travel- ers. It was supplanted in 1859 by the famous Fifth Ave. Hotel, for years associated with the most notable events. The Fifth Ave. Building contains, besides many offices, the rooms of the Aldine Association and the Fifth Ave. Restaurant. The Metro- politan Life Insurance Building, seen across the park, is described in Chapter 12. The temporary wooden structure facing the Hoffman House covers the entrance to the shaft for the new aqueduct. Similar structures in other parts of the city belong either to this work or to the new subway work.

Going up Broadway, we pass the site of Delmonico's, Twenty- sixth St., from Broadway to Fifth Ave., now covered by a sky- scraper, the 16-story St. James Building, on the site of St. James Hotel at northwest corner, the old but still popular Victoria Hotel at 27th St., and the New York office of the National Cash Register Company at 28th St. Near the northwest corner is the Broadway entrance to Proctor's Fifth Ave. Theatre, the main front being on 28th St. This has been an amusement site for over 40 years. In 1863 the Provost Marshal's office was here, and during the draft riots in July the whole block was burned down. The new Hotel Breslin is on the opposite side of the street. At the northeast corner of 29th St. is the Gilsey Building, which until recently was the Gilsey House, one of the most popular hotels in the city a generation ago. On the northwest corner is Weber's Theatre, formerly Weber & Field's Alusic Hall, and a few doors above is Daly's Theatre, opened as Banvard's Museum in 1867. When it became Daly's Theatre in 1879, it was at the upper limit of the theatre district, the lower limit being 13th St. Now it is at the lower limit, the upper limit being at the Lincoln Sq. Theatre, 66th St. Less than a generation ago it was the most fashionable theatre in New York, and while still giv- ing society plays it no longer holds its prominent position. Oppo- site Daly's Theatre is Shanley's Restaurant, and adjoining it is the Hofbrauhaus, one of the Broadway show places.

Just above 30th St. is Wallack Theatre, another of the fash- ionable theatres of a decade or two ago. It still gives fashionable plays, but, like its neighbor, Daly's Theatre, it is already too far downtown to attract the class of patrons who formerly patronized it. On the same block is the Grand Hotel, one of the oldest of the good Broadway houses. On the next block, at the southeast corner of 32d St., is the Imperial, and on the northeast cor- ner is the INIartinique, and on the block from 33d to 34th Sts. is the new 25-story McALPIN HOTEL, the largest and one of the most perfectly equipped hostelries in the world.

King's Hozc to Sec Nczv York. 37

This section of Broadway, from 23d to 59th Sts., is known as the "Great White Way," because of the brilliant electrical illu- minations at night. Here are some of the most marvelous and beautiful electric signs ever built.

GREELEY SQUARE, the little triangle on the west side of the street, from 32d St. to 33d St., contains a bronze statue of Horace Greeley. This statue had a tendency to slide off its granite base, owing to the vibration of the adjoining elevated structure, and to prevent this it was necessary to fasten the statue down. In this triangle is the main entrance to the terminal of the Hudson Tubes. The block facing Greeley Sq. on the west, called Broadway, though really part of Sixth Ave., is Gimbel's. the latest of the great department stores. On the block above is Saks', and on the block from 34th to 35th St. is AIACY'S, one of the largest and best-known retail establishments in the world. This concern was the first to introduce the department system, and it was the first to leave the old shopping district about 14th St. and move to this part of the city. Facing Macy's, is HERALD SQUARE, with a statue of W. E. Dodge, a famous merchant of the city. On the east of the square is the Marbridge Building, a 20-story building costing, with the ground, nearly $3,000,000.

The HERALD BUILDING, on the north side of the square, was, at the time of its erection, the most elaborate building devoted exclusively to a newspaper publication in the country, and archi- tecturally is one of the notable buildings in the city. It presents two interesting sights, a view of the press room through immense plate-glass windows on the Broadway side, and the mechanical bronze 'figures striking the bronze bell over the front entrance every hour. The smaller presses on which the Telegram is printed can be seen working during the day, but the largest presses are not started until about midnight. The northwest corner of Broad- way and 36th St. has been an amusement resort since 1876 and is now occupied by the Herald Sq. Theatre, now a motion-picture house. The block from 36th to 37th St. is occupied by the Marl- borough-Blenheim Hotel. Two blocks of one-story buildings follow on the west side.

At No. 1368 is the news store of Harry J. Schultz, where visitors may find their home papers. The latest papers from all principal American cities are always on sale here, and also daily and weekly papers from abroad. In addition to the papers there is a complete stock of souvenirs, post cards and novelties.

At the corner of 38th St. is the Knickerbocker Theatre, one of the largest in the city, and adjoining it, at the 39th St. corner, is the CASINO, the home of li-^ht opera and musical comedies.

38 King's Hozv to See New York.

The west side of Broadwav, from 39th to 40th St., is occupied by the METROPOLITAN OPERA HOUSE. This immense structure, occupying the whole block and seating 3,366 persons, was opened in Oct., 1883. The auditorium contains 122 boxes, either owned by stockholders or rented by the season. The regu- lar prices for seats range from $1 in the gallery to $6 in the orchestra.

Opposite the Metropolitan Opera House are several large restaurants, including the Kaiserhof, Lorber's and Browne's Chop House, and at the 40th St. corner is the Empire Theatre, where John Drew and Alaude Adams usually appear. At the 41st St. cor- ner is the Broadway Theatre, now a motion-picture house. On the west side of the block, at 41st St., is the Commercial Trust Co., and between 41st and 42d Sts. is the Cafe de Paris, one of the largest of the show restaurants. A former owner tried the experi- ment of enforcing the rule that only evening dress be worn in the main dining-room in the evening, but was unsuccessful, and the rule is not enforced at present. The adjoining Heidelberg Building, on the 42d St. corner, is another unsuccessful experi- ment. The ugly square tower, rising 410 feet above the street, was intended for advertising purposes, but the high buildings around it shut off the view of the tower and made it useless for the pur- pose intended.

On the southeast corner of 42d St. is the Knickerbocker Hotel, one of the fashionable hotels erected by the late Col. John Jacob Astor at a cost of $4,500,000. The west side of the block, from 42d to 43d St., is occupied by the TIMES BUILDING. This magnificent 28-story building, rising nearly 450 feet from the low- est basement to the top of the observatory rail, occupies one of the most prominent sites in the city, and its massive tower is the most prominent structure north of the Metropolitan Tower. Its erection involved extraordinary engineering difficulties. The sub- way structure passes through the basement, cutting out a large portion of the building below the street level.

On the east side of the block is the new Longacre Building, and adjoining it is Geo. M. Cohan's Theatre and office building on the 43d St. corner. Times Sq., from 43d to 47th St., is the center of the theatrical and hotel district. The Putnam Building, from 43d to 44th St., contains Shanley's famous restaurant and the offices of many theatrical concerns. On the southeast corner of 44th St. is the 20-story hotel built by Rector, now called Claridge. The west side of Times Sq., from 44th to 45th St., is occupied by the HOTEL ASTOR. built bv William Waldorf Astor at a cost of $5,000,000. Opposite the Hotel Astor is a single ornate struc-

Ki lilt's Hozc to Sec Nezu York

39

Hotel Claridge

Times Bklg. Hotel Astor

TIMES SQUAKE.

Globe Theatre

ture, housino: the Criterion Theatre, at the 44th St. corner, the New York Theatre at the 45th St. corner, and the New York Roof Garden. The buildinpj was opened by Oscar Hammerstein in 1895 as the Olympia, a theatre and roof garden, but it was a failure from the start. On the block from 45th to 46th St. are the Astor and Gaiety Theatres. Between 46th and 47th St., on the east, is the new Palace Theatre, and the Columbia, a burlesque house, on the corner of 47th St.. numbered on Seventh Ave. On the west is the Globe Theatre, and on the corner of 47th St. is the Strand Theatre, with a seatingr capacity of 3.300. At 48th St. is Rector's new restaurant and at 49th St. Churchill's, both show places. At 50th St. is the Winter Garden. At 54th St. is the Hotel Cumberland and on the next block the Hotel Woodward. On the northeast corner of 56th St. is the Broadway Tabernacle, the Congregational church organized in 1840. At 58th St. is the 20-story building of the U. S. Rubber Company, the tallest build- ing north of Times Sq. At 59th St., Columbus Circle is reached, described in Chapters 14 and 17. Broadway, from 48th to 70th St., is the center of the automobile trade, most of the stores being devoted to the exhibition and sale of motor vehicles and their accessories.

Fiftk A

venue

See Fifth Are. from a 'Bus.

THIS famous thoroughfare has undergone a complete change in less than two decades, and what was once the fashionable residential section is now almost completely given over to busi- ness. There are still a fev^ residential buildings below 42d St., but most, except those south of 12th St., have been transformed into, or replaced by, business buildings which are now invading even the once ultra-fashionable section between 42d and 59th Sts. The section north of 110th St. has become a tenement district, and tenements fill the side streets north of 96th St. almost to Fifth Ave. This restricts the fashionable residential section to the part facing Central Park from 58th to 96th St. The recent enforce- ment of the law against street encroachments compelled many house-owners to remove stairways, hedges, walls, gardens, etc., •which extended beyond the house lines, necessitating new en- trances to the buildings and giving an odd ap- pearance to many house fronts, especially notice- able in the case of some of the churches.

Fifth Ave. begins at Washington Sq. On the south side of the square is the Judson Memorial Baptist Church, with a terra - cotta campanile tower. The north side contains a number of old- fashioned houses which were fashionable resi- dences 40 years ago. Most of them are still occupied by members of notable New York fami- lies. On the east side is the NEW YORK UNI- VERSITY BUILDING. WASHINGTON ARCH. The Upper floors are used

40

King's Hozi' to Sec New York. 41

by some departments of the New York University, while the lower floors are occupied by the American Book Company, and on the west is the Holley, a quiet, refined hotel.

WASHINGTON ARCH, in the center, was erected between 1890 and 1892 by public subscription in commemoration of the centennial of Washington's inauguration. It is of white marble, 77 ft. high, with a span of 30 ft., and cost $128,000. It was de- signed by Stanford White. Just above Waverly PI. is Washing- ton ]Mews, a narrow, private street occupied by the stables once belonging to the houses fronting on Washington Sq. and 8th St. The marble front building, corner 8th St., was the residence of the late John Taylor Johnson. On the northeast corner is the Brevoort-Lafayette Hotel, once an ultra-fashionable hotel, now patronized mainly by foreigners. At the southeast corner of 9th St. is the former residence of Mark Twain, and on the northeast corner is that of General Daniel Sickles. At 10th St. is the Grosvenor Hotel, and opposite it the Episcopal Church of the Ascension. The block from 11th to 12th St. is occupied by the First Presbyterian Church, organized in 1716. From this point northward to 42d St. the entire aspect of the street has changed in less than a decade, not a single residence remaining from 14th to 23d St. At 12th St. is an 18-story loft building, at 15th St. the Kensington Building, and at 19th St. the Arnold Constable Dry Goods Store, which fronts on Broadway. Several other Broad- way buildings run through to Fifth Ave. in this section. At 20th St. is the ^iethodist Book Concern, with the Presbyterian Build- ing just above. At 22d St. is the Fuller Building, or "Flatiron." At 23d St., where Broadway crosses, is the Fifth Ave. Building, on the site of the long famous Fifth Ave. Hotel. Opposite is :\Iadison Sq. At 25th St. is the Worth ^^lonument, and near 26th St. the statue of Admiral Farragut.

Northward for a mile and a half are scores of retail shops which are unsurpassed in the world, but space permits mention of only the most notable. A large office and store building is on the site of Delmonico's. southwest corner of 26th St., and the Croisic, a similar building, is on the northwest corner. Across the avenue the entire block is occupied by the Brunswick Build- ing, on the site of the once fashionable Brunswick Hotel. The 27Ui St. corner of this building is occupied by Brentano's book store, one of the largest and most complete establishments in the country.

On the opposite corner is the Victoria Hotel \yhich fronts on Broad wav. and just above is the Second National Bank. The large building on the southeast corner of 29th St. is the

42

King's How to See New York.

Knickerbocker Apartments, while diagonally across the street is the MARBLE COLLEGIATE CHURCH, one of the six Col- legiate Churches which trace their origin to the First Church, organized In' the Dutch settlers in 1628. Adjoining it is the Hol- land House, one of the quiet, fashionable hotels, while across the street is the Calumet Club. On the northwest corner of 32d St. is the Knickerbocker Club, another exclusive organization, with a long waiting list. The west side of the block, from 33d to 34th St., is occupied b}- the famous WALDORF-ASTORL\ HOTEL,

FIFTH AVE. North from 33d St.

ol which the 33d St. portion, built by William Waldorf Astor. was opened in 1893, the 34th St. and larger part being built bv Col, John Jacob Astor at a later period. The combined building is one of the finest and most costly hotels in the world and con- tains 1,400 rooms.

The magnificent marble building occupying, the entire east side of the block from 34th to 35th St. is Altman's fine department store, while on the west side is the Columbia-Knickerbocker Trust Company at 34th St. On the corner of 35th St. is Best &

King's Ilozi' to Sec XcziJ Yorlc. 43

Company's store, which specializes in garments for children. Almost adjoining is Gorham's magnificent silver and jewelry store. On the east side is Gunther's fur establishment, and ad- joining it Tiffany's famous jewelry house. Diagonally opposite is the Brick Presbyterian Church. Just behind this, on W. 37th St., at No. 11, is the 37th St. Tea Room. On the northwest corner of 38tli St. is the new Lord & Taylor department store. The northeast corner is the Union League Club, the first of the clubs of similar name established during the Civil War to aid the Union. The brownstone house on the southeast corner of 40th St. is the home of Frederick \V. Vanderbilt.

From 40th to 42d St. is the central building of the NEW YORK PUBLIC LIBRARY, on the site of the original Croton Reservoir. The New York Public Library was formed by the consolidation in May, 1895, of the Astor Library (founded in 1849), the Lenox Library (founded in 1870), and the Tilden Trust (the private library of Samuel Jones Tilden and an endowment fund of about $2,000,000). At that time the consolidation libra- ries had 3.50,000 volumes and an endowment of $3,500,000.

The present building was erected by the city and was opened r\Iay 23, 1911. It is 390 ft. long. 270 ft. deep, with 2 inner courts, each about 80 ft. square. Seating capacity in the main reading- room for 768 readers; in the special rooms for 1,000 more. In the main stack room are about 63 miles of shelving, with storage capacity for about 2.500,000 volumes. Book stacks in the special reading-rooms have capacity for about 5C0.000 more. The refer- ence collection now contains about 900,000 volumes and 300.000 pamphlets. The Library is open every week day (including holi- days) from 9 A. ]\I. to io P. M. ; on Sundays from 1 to 10 P. M. The picture galleries on the top floor close at 6 P. M.

Besides the central building, the Library has 42 branch build- ings for circulation in the boroughs of Manhattan, the Bronx and Richmond. [Most of them were erected from funds given in 1901 by Mr. Andrew Carnegie. Thev are maintained by the city oi New York, and contain about 950,000 volumes, with a yearly cir- culation of over 8,000,000. The Library, central_ building and branches, is used by more people than any similar institution.

At 43d St. is the Jewish Temple Emanu-El. the richest re- formed congregation in America. The building, following the Moorish style of architecture, has suffered in appearance through the change in the entrance. At the southwest corner of 44th St. is Sherry's Restaurant and Hotel, and at the northeast corner is his more famous rival, Delmonico. On the southeast corner is the Harriman National Bank, and opposite it the Fifth Ave. Bank,

Kiiis's How to Sec AVcC York. 45

one of the richert in the country, its $100 shares selling for over $4, 300 each. Just above the corner of 45th St. is the Church of the Heavenly Rest ; the change in the entrance has altered the pleasing appearance of the building. The block from 46th to 47th St., on the east side, was occupied by the Windsor Hotel, which burned down in 1899, with a loss of 50 persons. The Windsor Arcade was erected on its site, and the 47th St. part was recently removed to make way for the building of W. & J. Sloane. On the northeast corner of 47th St. is the residence of Mrs. F. J. Shepard (Miss Helen Gould). On the northwest corner of 48th St. is the Collegiate Reformed Church of St. Nicholas. Mrs. Russell Sage lives on the same block, at No. 604, and Mrs. Ogden Goelet at No. 608. On the east side, from 40th to 50th St., is the Belgravia. a fashionable apartment house, the Democratic Club, and Buckingham Hotel, an old, fashionable hotel.

ST. PATRICK'S CATHEDRAL is on the block from 50th to 51st St. The building is of white marble in the decorated Gothic style and is considered to be the most beautiful church edifice in America. It is 332 ft. long, 174 ft. wide, the central gable is 156 ft. high and the spires are 330 ft. high. The seating capacity of the pews is 2,500. The corner stone was laid in 1858 and the church was dedicated in 1879 by Cardinal McCloskey, who later presented to the church the high altar, under which he is buried. This altar is of Italian marble, inlaid with semi-precious stones. The front is divided into panels presenting bas reliefs of the Agony, the Carrying of the Cross and the Last Supper. The carved altar screen of Portiers stone is 33 ft. long and 50 ft. high. Seventy stained-glass windows illuminate the interior. Over half are memorial windows representing Biblical subjects.

On the next corner is the Union Club, the oldest of the fash- ionable social clubs, and at No. 647 is the residence of Robert Goelet. On the opposite side of the block are the Vandcrbilt twm residences, brownstone buildings connected by an entrance struc- ture, which were for years the largest and most costly dwelhng- housLS in New York. Henry C. Frick lives in the southerly one, pending the completion of his new home. On the next corner is the residence of W. K. Vanderbilt, with that of W. K. Vanderbilt, Jr., next. The adioining beautiful residence of Frederick Gallatm was recently demolished to make room for a loft buildmg. On the 53d St. corner is the new ST. THOMAS P. E. CHURCH. The old building was destroved by fire several years ago. When the funds for the new building were about ready to start the work the earthquake in San Francisco occurred, and the congregation voted to send all the money to help the sufferers there, so the

ST. PATRICK'S CATIIEDIIAL. 4G Fifth Ave., oOtli to olst St., to MadisoD Ave.

Kind's ]Io7i' to Sec Xczc York.

47

new building was only completed in 1913. Above tbe church live two more members of the Vanderbilt family, W. Seward Webb at Ko. 680. and H. McK. Twoniblv at No. 684. Just off the avenue, at 4 W'. 54th St., is the home of John D. Rocke- feller. His broth- er, William, oc- cupies the brick building on the southeast corner, Xo. 689. The granite building on the northwest corner bearing a number of college shields on the front and side is the University Club. The Goth- am, at the south- west corner of 5:)th St., and the St. Regis, at the southeast corner, are ultra-fashion- able hotels. On the northwest corner is the Fifth Ave. Pres- byterian Church, and on the 56th St. corner is the former residence of Edwin Gould.

A great office Tjjp^ SHERMAN STATUE,

building is on the

site of the Whitnev Mansion, southwest corner of 57th St. Un the opposite side, extending to 58th St., is the magnificent resi- dence of Mrs Cornelius Vanderbilt, for size and grandeur one ot the most notable on the avenue. The marble building on the northeast corner is the residence of ^Mrs. Herman Oelnchs. Will- iam E. Iselin lives on the same block, at Xo. 745. The stately l:omes which line the avenue and the side streets in this part ot

A

i

N

K i

IMetropolitan West St. Woolworth Singer Municipal Whitehall Eiiuitiible Aqx

SKYSCRAPERS OF LOWER MANHATTAN. Enormous steel lireproof Imi from 500 to 786 ft. high, three over 400 ft., a score over 300 ft. Here are the hei 48

Custom House Bridges Battery Barge Uttice Scnith Ferry

worth two billion dollars, most of them built within a rlozen years. Six arc ■l•^^ <n- agencies ol businesses aggregating over $400,000,000,000 of investments.

50 Kiufi's Hozu to Sec New York.

the city are fast disappearing, the former owners taking up new residences in other neighborhoods, or else adopting the more modern mode of Hving in fashionable hotels or apartment houses. The Plaza, from 58th to 59th St., is dominated by the new 18-story Plaza Hotel, an ultra-fashionable house having accom- modations for families who make this their permanent residence as well as for transient guests. Upon application at the office a page will show visitors the features of the building, including the wonderful kitchen. On the east side of the square are the Savoy, on the south corner, and the Hotel Netherland, on the north cor- ner of 59th St. The Plaza has the gilt bronze equestrian statue of General W. T. Sherman at the Scholars' Gate to Central Park. The building of the Union Trust Company, at 60th St., is at present the last of the commercial buildings, and northward, as far as 92d St., there is a succession of residential mansions. At 60th St. is the Metropolitan Club, called the "Millionaires' Club." The Gerry ^Mansion is at 61st St., the residence of W. E. Roosevelt at Xo.804, W. L. Bull at Xo. 805, Hamilton Fish at No. 810, ^^Irs. J. P. Ker- nochan at No. 824, Clifford V. Brokaw at Xo. 825, W. Guggen- heim at Xo. 833, W. Watts Sherman at No. 838. The large dou- ble house at 65th St. was the residence of the late John Jacob Astor, who lost his life on the "Titanic." At the north corner of 66th St. is the residence of Mrs. Henry O. Havemeyer. O. H. Pavne lives at Xo. 852, Elbert H. Gary at Xo. 856, Geo. J. Gould at "^Xo. 857, corner of 67th St. At Xo. 858 is the residence of Thomas F. Ryan, and at the 68th St. corner was the Yerkes' Mansion and art gallerv. the latter willed to the city but lost through legal technicalities. On the north corner is the famous Whitney house, one of the most costly in its interior decorations in America. It is now occupied by H. P. Whitney. At Xo. 874 is the residence of Mrs. Joseph Stickney. On the corner of 69th St. is the Ogden Mills residence, and at Xo. 883 that of John Sloane. On the block froni 70th to 71st St.. H. C. Frick is erectmg one of the largest residences in the city, which will cost when com- pleted about $3,000,000. This was the site of Lenox Library, now part of the N. Y. Public Library. On the opposite side of the avenue, in a recess of the park wall, is the Richard Hunt Memorial, a bronze bust bv the sculptor D. E. French.

Corner of 72d St. is the Burden house. At No. 923 is the resi- dence of Mrs. Randolph Guggenheimer. The brownstone house, corner 74th St., was begun in 1875 by William Pickhardt, an eccentric German millioiiaire. He repeatedly changed the plans, and when completed in 1889 he w^as dissatisfied with it and would not occupy it. In 1895 he put it up at auction, and the

Kijii^'s llozc to Sec Nczv ]'ork.

house upon which he had spent over $1. ()()().()()() hrouglit $472. oOO. It was first occupied by the new owner in 1896, over 20 years after it was begun. At No. 9:32 is the residence of Mortimer L. Schifif. Edwin Gould Hves at Xo. 9:56. At 76th St. is the Tem- ple BETH-EL, its great gilt-ribbed done being a prominent land- mark. At 77th St. is Senator W. A. Clark's Mansion, one of the most costlv and elaborate residences on the avenue. At Xo. 963 C. F. Dietrich lives, at No. 964 Geo. H. Butler, at Xo. 965 Jacob H. Schifif. On the north corner of 78th St. is the new home of James B. Duke. At Xo. 972 Payne Whitney lives, and the marble build- ing at the north corner of 79th St. is the residence of Howard C. Brokaw. F. W. Woolworth lives at No. 990. At No. 998 is a magnificent ap artment house where suites rent for such sums that it has been pop- ularly called the "M illionaires' Ap a rtments." At present Levi P. Morton, Elihu Root and M. Guggenheim are among those making their home here.

On the west side of the ave- nue, opposite 82d St.. is the Metro- politan ^luseum of Art, described in Chapter 16. Anthony Drexel, Jr., Hves at No. 1015, William Saloman at No. 1020. On the southeast corner of 86th St. is the new home of Wm. Starr Mil- ler, on the same corner of 87th St. that of James Speyer, while opposite is Henry Phipps' residence and J. Gould's at No. 1082. The block from 90th to 91st St. is occupied by the residence of Andrew Carnegie, a million dollar building, surrounded by a garden. Jacob Ruppert lives at No. 1116, corner 93d St. The block from 100th to 101st St. is occunied by Mount Sinai Hospital, one of the largest and best-equipped hospital build- ings in the world. The remainder of the avenue holds little of interest.

ANDREW CARNECJIE'S RESIDENCE.

Battery and Bow^lmg Green

ROUTE. Boiling Green Subivay Station to ]VhitehaU St., to South Ferry, along the Sea Wall to Pier i, North River, to Battery PL, and back to Station.

BOWLING GREEN is the little park at the foot of Broadway. On the south is the immense new Custom House, on the east is the red brick Produce Exchange and on the west are the buildings described under Broadway from Battery PI. to Morris St. The park, which covers half an acre, has been a public ground since the founding of the city, first as a market-place, then as a parade-ground, later as a pleasure-ground for playing bowls, whence its name. In the center stood a leaden gilt statue of George the Third, erected in 1770 and torn down by the mob upon hearing of the signing of the Declaration of Independence, on July 9, 1776. It was sent to Litchfield, Conn., where it was converted into 42,000 bullets for the patriots' use. Iron crowns and balls, surmounting the pickets of the fence around the green, were used as ammunition. The park contains a statue, facing the Custom House, of Abraham de Peyster, one of the early Dutch officials, and a fountain.

The CUSTOM HOUSE is one of the most beautiful public buildings in the city. It was erected in 1901-07 of ^Nlaine granite, seven stories high, at a cost, with equipment, of about $7,000,000. The four marble groups on pedestals at the Bowling Green entrances to the building represent four continents. They are allegorical, each significant of the development and achievements of the race of the respective continent. The twelve statues on the fagade represent the most important commercial nations in the world's history — Greece, Rome, Phoenicia, Genoa, Venice, Spain, Holland, Portugal, Denmark, Germany, France and Eng- land. Genoa is represented by Columbus, Venice by the Doge ]\Iariano Falieri, Spain by Queen Isabella, Holland by Admiral Van Tromp and Portugal by Prince Henry the Navigator. The others are represented by emblematic figures. There is a mass of minor decorations suggestive of the world of trade and trans- portation. The Collector of Customs, Naval officers. Surveyor, the Steamboat Inspection Service Bureau, U. S. Internal Revenue Office, National Bank Examiner, U. S. Civil Service Board, the Inspector of Animals for Export, the Secret Service Division of the Treasury Department, U. S. Coast and Geodetic Survey and U. S. Revenue Cutter Service have offices in the Custom House.

Kiiis's How to Sec New York.

U. S. CUSTOM HOUSE. Bowliug Green, Whitehall to State St. The building stands on the site of the Dutch Fort Amsterdam ard the EngHsh Fort George. After the Revokition the Govern- ment house was erected on this site and it remained until 1815, being replaced by residences later converted into steamship offices.

The PRODUCE EXCHANGE building occupies the block on Whitehall St. from Beaver to Stone St. This building was at the time of its erection, 1884, the most notable building in this part of the. city. It is 300 ft. long, 1.50 ft. wide, 116 ft. high, with a campanile rising 225 ft. above the street, and has a floor space of about iVi acres. It stands upon 15,000 spruce piles driven down to bed rock, the present concrete caisson foundations not being used at the time of its erection. The cost of ground and building was nearly V/a, million dollars. This immense struc- ture has nearly 2,000 windows and 1,000 doors, 9 elevators carry- ing over 25,000 passengers daily. The Produce Exchange was organized in 1868 and has a membership limited to 3,000. Its transactions, covering over a thousand million dollars a year, include the wholesale buying and selling of grain, filour, provi- sions, lard, seeds, butter, eggs, cheese, hay, straw, hops, naval stores, petroleum, etc. Some of these commodities are also dealt in on other exchanges.

King's How to Sec Xczc ]'orh. 55

At Water St. is the red brick ARMY BUILDIXG, containing headquarters of the quartermaster and commissary departments. Supervisor of the Harbor, Harbor Line Board and other otflces connected with or under the supervision of the Army.

At the foot of Whitehall St. is South l-^rry, where are a number of lines to Brooklyn and Statcn Island, also Government boats to Governor's Island and Ellis Island, and overhead is the terminus of all the elevated lines.

Adjoining South Ferry is the low structure used as an Em- ployment Bureau for Immigrants, next to wdiich is the new Barge

Office. The old building, which was intended as a landing-place for cabin passengers, became the receiving station for steerage passengers and later was used by customs officials. It is now a landing-place for immigrants who are brought from Ellis Island, the new immigrant depot. The dock adjoining is the landing- place for the small steamboats used by revenue officers to board incoming vessels, and alongside this dock is the ferry to Gover- nor's Island.

BATTERY PARK, or the "Battery," as it is usually called, was originally a sandy beach about on a line with the elevated railway structure. The English had a battery on wdiat is now State St., and Governor Leisler, in 1692, ordered the beach beyond the battery to be a public thoroughfare and promenade. Across the park may be seen on State St. a few old buildings which, at the time of their erection at the beginning of the 19th century, were fashionable residences. The building at Xo. 8, now occu- pied by a mission, presents an odd curved front. Large office buildings, like the Cheesborough and the Battery Park, will prob- ably soon fill this street. A rock, on wdiich a fort, now the Aqua- rium, was built, was then 300 ft. ofT shore, but the intervening space has since been filled in to complete the park, wdiich now covers an area of 21 acres. The park contains statues of John

Kiltie's Hozc to See Nezv York.

Ericsson, the builder of the Monitor, of Civil War fame, and of Verazzani, who, the Italians claim, was the first navigator to enter New York harbor. The flagstaft near the Barge Office was the steel mast of the Clip defender Constitu- tion. If time permits, brief vis- its can be made to Governor's Island, Liberty Island and Ellis Island.

GOVERNOR'S ISLAND, the headquarters of the military Department of the East, is lit- tle over half a mile from the Battery. Besides officers' bar- racks, etc., it contains the an- tiquated Eort Columbus, the circular structure erected in 1811, called Castle Williams, now used as a military prison and a landing-place and hang- ars for aerial craft. The ]\Iili- tary Service Institution in one of the buildings on the island has a collection of war relics. Admission to Governor's Island is by pass, obtainable by writ- ing to the post adjutant. Gov- ernment Ferry, near South Ferry.

LIBERTY ISLAND, upon which Bartholdi's Statue of Lib- erty stands, is about two miles from the Battery, reached by ferrv from the Battery landing. The' Statue of Liberty is 151 ft. high, standing upon a granite and concrete pedestal 155 ft. high. The statue consists of 300 sheets of hammered copper riveted together over a skele- ton of iron, provision being

STATUE OF LIBERTY,

Ki)iii's IloiK' to See Neiv York.

57

made for contraction and expansion due to cold and heat, and also to prevent corrosion caused by electrical action between tiie copper and iron in the presence of the salty moisture in the air. The statue, from the heel to the top of the head, is 111^ ft. high. The head, from the chin to the skull, is 17J4 ft. ; width from ear to ear, 10 ft. The index finger is 8 ft. long, the right arm 42 ft. The lady has a mouth 3 ft. wide, a nose W2 ft. long and she is 35 ft. across the waist. The work on the statue, begun in 3 879, was completed in 1883 at a cost of over a million francs, raised by popular subscription in France. The pedestal, completed in 1886, cost $250,000, raised by popular subscription in the United States mainly through the efforts of the New York World. The statue was unveiled October 28, 1886. Ad-

ELLIS ISLAND. New York Harbor.

mission to the head is free. From here may be obtained a fine view of the lower harbor, the Narrows, Brooklyn, Staten Island, and part of New Jersey. Boats leave Battery Landing every hour from 9 to 5 and return from the island on the half hour. Fare for the round trip, 25 cts.

ELLIS ISLAND, near Liberty Island, is the landing-place for immigrants, where they are examined as to their eligibility for admission to the United States. The immigrants enter a big reception-room in the main building, where they are divided into groups. These pass before a corps of examining physicians, then before the immigrant inspectors, who question each person as to his purpose, means, character, etc. Those who fail to pass the physicians or inspectors are detained and re-examined by a board. If they fail to pass this board, they are detained until the depart- ure of the vessel which brought them, or another vessel of the same line, and are returned. Those who are sick and need imme- diate attention are sent to the hospital on the island. The recep- tion and examination and disposition of the immigrants is an interesting sight. Visitors are admitted to a balcony overlooking

58 Kiiif^'s Hoiv to See Nezv York.

the room where they are received. Free ferry from the Battery.

Walking along the sea wall of Battery Park, from which a fine view of the harbor may be had. the ever-changing panorama presenting at all hours a fascinating sight, we come to a public landing-place used chiefly by excursion boats, then to the city free bath. The city has 20 such floating baths and 20 interior baths, scattered over the city, besides an immense bathing house in Coney Island. Just be3'ond are the Battery Baths (admission fee charged).

The brown circular building is the AQUARIUM, one of the most interesting sights for visitors. Originally Fort Clinton, erected in 1805 to 1807, on what was then an island, it was deeded to the city in 1822 and became an amusement resort called Castle Garden. Here General Lafayette was received. Prof. Morse demonstrated and Jenny Lind made her debut. It was leased to the Federal Government in 1854, and from 1855 to 1890 it was the immigrant landing-place. It was restored to the city in 1891, and in 1896 it was converted into an aquarium, showing over 200 kinds of sea creatures, totaling some 3,000 living specimens. In the large tanks in the center of the floor are seals, sea lions and other large specimens of sea life. In the wall tanks are fresh and salt water fishes, many of great beauty. In the gallery are many examples of fixed sea life, including corals, mol- lusks, crustaceans, etc. It is open daily from 10 A. M. to 4 P. M. and is free to the public. Just to the west of the Aquarium is a fire station, with one of the city's fire boats, and adjoining the fire-boat landing is a stone landing-dock for small boats. Adjoin- ing this is the covered pier used by the Department of Docks and Ferries and by the Police Department for berthing its steamboat Patrol. On the second floor are the offices of the Dock Commis- sioner and the Department of Docks and Ferries, which has charge of all water-front property and operates the three lines of municipal ferries. A number of launches in the stone landing- dock are used bv the police for patrolling the water front.

BATTERY PLACE. The street to the north of Battery Park, west of Broadway, has two notable structures, the W hitehall Building on the corner of West St.. and the Washington Building, described as No. 1 Broadway. The front of the former is of bufif and terra-cotta brick, is 254 feet high and contains 20 stories. An addition erected in the rear contains 31 stories, is 416 feet high and has, with the original structure, nearly 13^ acres floor space. Just north of Battery PI., on Washington St.. is the Syrian quar- ter, one of the strange foreign sections of the city. At Xo. 46 Washington St. is the Syrian Church.

Bo^vlmg Green to Wall Street

ROl'TE. Sulwax to Wall St., to Pearl St., to Hearer St.. to William St. (to Hanover Sq.), to Old Sli/^, to South St., to Broad St., to Exchang,e PI. to Broadivay. to Siibzvav. This trip takes us through part of the financial a)id shipping districts. VV^ALL ST. was originally the site of a wall erected in 1652 to Vv enclose the little town which lay to the south, and guard it against attack by Indians and English. The wall was demolished m 1699 and this thoroughfare was left. It was a fashionable resi- dence street at the beginning of the 19th century, but financial institutions were in the neighborhood before the Revolution. As the leaders of fashion gradually moved further uptown, their residences were taken up by business and financial concerns, and the street, which is less than half a mile long, is now the financial center of the continent and is filled with great office and Govern- ment buildings, includjng some of the most notable structures in Xew York. Only the most important or most interesting will be mentioned. Xo. 1, at the south corner of Broadway, is an 18-story building on a plot 29 ft. 10 in. by 39 ft. 10 in., until 1910 the most expensive plot in New York, costing $598.21 per square foot. Opposite is the United Bank Building. Between New and Broad Sts. is the Wall St. entrance to the STOCK EXCHANGE, the main entrance and fagade being on Broad St. It is a $3,000,000 marble structure, occupied May, 1903. with a frontage of 138 ft. on Broad St. and 152 ft. 9 in. on New St. It is a 10-story building, five stories of which are recessed behind six Corinthian columns 52 ft. 6 in. high, which uphold a richly sculptured pediment. The central figure represents Integrity. The group on the right of the central figure represents agriculture and mining ; that on the left represents motive power, scientific and mechanical appliances. The organization is a non-incorporated body of 1,100 members, formed in 1792. Membership or a seat in the Exchange has a fluctuating value ranging since 1901 between $41,000 and $95,000. In 1913 sales amounted to 83,283,582 shares of stock, worth $5,921,462,680, and $.501,155,920 bonds. The record day in stocks was April 30, 1901, when 3,190,857 shares were traded in, and in bonds, Nov. 11, 1904, when sales amounted to $15,085,500.

At the northwest corner of Nassau and Wall Sts. is the 39-storv BANKERS TRUST COMPANY BUILDING, 539 ft. high, being the fourth in height of the city's skyscrapers. In 1897, the 20-storv Gillender Building was erected on this site, but in less than 15

59

Ki)ig's riozi' to See Neiv York.

61

years it has become so antiquated in comparison with more mod- ern structures that it was demolished to make room for this magnificent building.

On the opposite corner is the classical U. S. SUB-TREAS- URY BUILDING. It was erected for the Custom House, but proved inadequate for that purpose and was converted into a branch of the U. S. Treasury, with immense vaults and store rooms for the storage of coin. It has held at one time over $225,- 000.000 in gold and silver. The granite walls are from ;; to 5 ft.

UNITED STATES SUB-TREASURY AND ASSAY OFl ICE.

thick, the windows are iron barred and have steel shutters perfor- ated for rifles. The doors and ceilings over the porches are likewise perforated, and on the roof are three steel bullet-proof turrets, each containing a gatling-gun, rifles and hand grenades. It is said that 100 men with the arms with which the building is supplied could hold it against any possible attack except artillery. The building stands upon the site of the English City Hall and Government building. This was really the Capitol of the province. After the Revolution it became the U. S. Capitol, and here Washington took the oath of office as President on April 30, 1789. The brown-stone slab upon which he stood was placed in front of the statue wdiich stands' in front of the building until relic hunters began to chip it to pieces. It is now on the interior wall of the build- ing at the Wall St. end. Several memorial tablets are im- bedded in the walls of the l)uilding. Visitors may pass through the

62 King's H07

Bankers Trust Liberty Tower

Exchange PI. Curb Market BROAD ST.

to See Nezv York.

hall between 10 and 3, but are not admitted to the vaults.

x\djoining the Sub-Treasury is the U. S. ASSAY OFFICE. This is the oldest building on Wall St.. having been erected in 1823 as a branch of the Bank of the United States. Every operation tbat is car- ried on in the Mint, except the actual stamping out of the coin from the bullion, is carried on here. The crude bullion is received here and taken to a 6-story building in the rear, where it is assayed, re- fined and melted into bars, the gold ones weighing from 200 to 300 ounces, the silver ones weighing 200 ounces. These are then re- turned to the main building, where they are stored in steel safes. The Assay Office is open from 10 A. ]\I. to 3 P. \l. On application on the second floor, visitors will be shown the interesting departments.

On the east corner of Broad St. is being erected a building for J. P. Morgan & Co. Adjoining is the Wall. St. wing of the Mill's Build- ing, the main front being on Broad St. At Nos. 40 and 42 are two great bank buildings, owned by the Bank of the Alanhattan Company, Merchants' National Bank and the Bank of America. Opposite them, at No. 37, is the Equitable Trust Com- pany, at No. 43 is the U. S. Trust Company, and at No. 49 is the At- lantic Building. On the next block, from William to Hanover St., is the NATIONAL CITY BANK, the richest national bank in Amer- ica; with a capital of $2.),000,000, it has a surplus of nearly $30,000,- 000 and $240,000,000 deposits. The

Kiiii^'s Hoic to See Xezi> York. 63

building itself, erected in 1836, was originall.v the Merchants Ex- change, then the Custom House, and was bought from the United States Government for $3,265,000. On the northeast corner of William St. is the old building of the Bank of New York, the old- est bank in the city. The original corner-stone states it was laid June 22, 179T. On the same block are the buildings of the Central Trust Company, at Xo. 54, the great office building at Xo. 60, and the Seaman's Bank, corner Pearl St. On the block below is the Tontine Building, on the site of the Tontine Coffee House, one of the most famous of the early meeting-places of merchants. The meal market and slave market stood in this part of the street be- fore the Revolution. Going south on Pearl St., a few steps bring us to the foot of Beaver St. Going up two blocks to William St., we are again in the midst of immense skyscrapers. The yellow brick building running to Hanover Sq. is the Cotton Exchange. The wedge-shaped building at S. William St. has on its ground floor Delmonico's Restaurant. Tw^o marble pillars at the doorway were brought from Pompeii, where they were found among the ruins. The Corn Exchange Bank and the Farmers' Loan and Trust Company Building occupy other corners.

The southeast corner of Hanover Sq., which is just to the east, is occupied by the large new building of the shipping firm of R. Grace & Co. Going east on Old Slip, the short street running to the East River, on the block, from Water to Front St., is a fire engine company, and on the next block a police station, one of the finest in the city. At the river is South St. Turning south one block is the new Seaman's Institute, on which is the Titanic Memorial Lighthouse, with a time ball. The East River front, from Old Slip to Broad St., was, in the days of clipper ships, the most interesting and busy strip of water front around Xew York. With their disappearance it has become commonplace.

JEAXETTE PARK, in Coenties Slip, was named in honor of the vessel fitted out by the Xew York Herald for Lt. DeLong for Arctic exploration. The vessel, with its commander, was lost in the Arctic in 1881. The site of the park was formerly an indentation extending nearly to the elevated structure and used as the landing-place for canal barges. A bronze plate on a build- ing, at Xo. 88 Pearl St., states that it is where the great fire of 1835 stopped after destroying 650 buildings.

BROAD ST. was originally a creek through marshes which extended almost up to Wall St. The Dutch boarded up the sides and later covered it over, forming a wide street. At the south- east corner of Broad and Pearl St. is the historical FRAUXCE'S TA VERX, where Washington took leave of his officers at the close

64

King's How to See Nezv York.

Fraunce's Tavern.

of the Revolution. It has been restored and presents to-day the same appearance as it did in Washington's day. It was built in 1725 and is sup- posed to be the oldest build- ing on Manhattan Island. The long room on the sec- ond floor is now used as a restaurant. The building is well worth a visit. Nearly opposite is the building of the Bush Terminal Com- pany. A small plot at Stone St., 10 by 20, is held by the family of the original Dutch owner. At Xo. 84 is the Austrian Society's Home, and at No. 78 is the Mari- time Exchange, with an interesting model-room. On the southeast corner of Beaver St. is the marble Consolidated Stock- Exchange ; visitors' entrance on Beaver St. This exchange was formed in 1885 by the union of the Mining Stock Exchange and five other boards, and deals mainly in oil and mining, with some railway and other securities. Opposite is the American Bank Note Building on the south and the Morris Building on the north cor- ner. A curious feature of the street is the curb market. A part of Broad St., just to the northward, is roped off, and in the enclos- ure are brokers and brokers' clerks, w^ho have no connection with any organized exchange. They will deal in any kind of stock or other financial securities for which they can get purchasers, and they transmit their orders in pantomimic signs to their offices in the surrounding buildings. It is one of the sights of the town no visitor should miss.

The No. 50 Broad St., Johnson, Blair and Commercial Cable Buildings are a group of lofty buildings on the west side of the street, near Exchange PI, and on the east side are the Broad Exchange and the Mills Buildings, all magnificent structures filled wnth offices of financial concerns. Turning west at Exchange PI., past New St., the narrow street between Broad St. and Broad- way, on which the buildings face the other two thoroughfares. Broadway is reached and the subway at Wall St. The large building on Rector St., seen across Trinity Churchyard, is the U. S. Express Building.

Wall to Fulton Street

ROUTE. Siibzcay Station at Wall St., Cedar to Nassau, to Maiden Lane, to South, to Fulton, to William, to John, to Nassau, to Maiden Lane, to Cortlandt, to Church, to Liberty, to West, to Fulton, to Siibzvay.

GOING up Broadway two blocks we reach Cedar St. On Cedar St.. a few feet east of Broadway, is the NEW YORK CLEARING HOUSE, a white marble structure declared to be the most beautiful building devoted to finance in the city. The upper part is profusely decorated and the whole topped by a sky- lighted dome. The ground floor is occupied by the Chase National Bank, the upper floors by the Clearing House Associa- tion. Here the checks received by the 65 banks and trust compa- nies forming the association are collected daily, and by a system of exchanges it is found how much each bank must pay or receive to clear its account with the others. In 1913 the clearings amounted to over 98,121 million dol- lars, a daily average of over $323,800,000. On Nov. 3, 1909, the clearings amounted to $736,000,000. The average daily bal- ances in 1913 were $16,970,000, or about 5^ per cent, of the clearings.

The work of the Clearing House is very interesting, but visitors are not ad- mitted. The most interesting feature in the building, but not shown to visitors, is the triple vault, really three chrome steel safes, in the cellar. n. y. clearing house

66

King's Hozv to See Neiv York.

The vault rests upon piers of concrete masonry and railroad iron 7 ft. high, three piers being imbedded in a base of concrete 6 ft. thick. The outer walls of the vault consist of steel plates 6 in. thick; each outer door weighs 10 tons, and these, with two inner doors to each safe, are fitted with time and combination locks. Around the vault, 4 ft. from the walls, is a fence with bars 3 in. thick. Other precautions besides watchmen are measures for flooding

the vault room, or filling it with live steam.

CHAMBER OF COMMERCE. 65 Liberty St.

for electric signaling upon contact with any part of the walls, for sending a high voltage current through the fence and walls, etc. The interior dimensions of the vault are : 24 ft. wide, 20 ft. deep and 12 ft. high, hold- ing when full 210 tons of gold.

Nassau St., the narrow thorough- fare one block east of Broadway, was laid out in 1692 and was never widened. It is now one of the busiest streets in the city. Its congested condition during the noon and early eve- ning hours, when the thousands of

individuals who occupy the lofty buildings during working hours fill the street, is used as an irrefutable argument against the erection of skyscrapers in narrow thoroughfares.

The block on Nassau St. between Cedar and Pine Sts. is occu- pied bv the building of the Fourth National Bank. On the east side of the block, from Cedar to Liberty St.. is the MUTUAL LIFE INSURANCE BUILDING. It occupies the site of the ]\Iiddle Dutch Reformed Church, first erected in 1729, demolished 1882 and used for 30 years as the Post Ofiice. Behind the Church, on the Liberty St. side, stood the Lispenard Sugar House, used as a military prison during the Revolution. A historical tablet is

Kiii^^'s Ilozc to Sec AVzc Vork. 67

affixed to the side of the building. Opposite the Mutual Life is the building of the National Bank of Commerce, corner Cedar St., and adjoining it is the Postal Life Building. On the northwest corner of Liberty and Xassau Sts. is the 31-story Liberty Tower. 385 feet high. This building is typical of the development of build- ings with large office areas erected on small plots.

Adjoining it on the west is the CHAjMBER OF COMMERCE. The present building, costing $1,. 500,000, was dedicated in 1902 by President Roosevelt. The front is embellished with Corinthian columns, between which are statues of Alexander Hamilton, DeWitt Clinton and John Jay. and groups representing commerce are over the entrance and below the cornice. The Chamber of Commerce, now numbering 1,600 members, organized in 1768, is the oldest commercial organization in the U. S., and deals with the greater problems of commerce, the development of the port and the ^velfare of the city generally. We turn east at Maiden Lane, which is the site of a brook where Dutch maidens did the family washing. It was known in Dutch days as Maagde Paatje, translated into English as Maiden Lane. At the northeast corner of Maiden Lane and William St. is the building of the Royal Insurance Company, and opposite it, on the southeast corner, is the large red brick building of the London, Liverpool and Globe Insurance Company. This is the center of the insurance district.

The triangular plot at the junction of Liberty St. and Maiden Lane is occupied by the new 20-story building of the German American Insurance Company, and opposite this, on the south, is the 25-story office building known as No. 80 Maiden Lane. The narrow street opening on Maiden Lane directly opposite this sky- scraper is Gold St., one of the oldest streets in this vicinity and the western border of the hide and leather district. At the foot of Maiden Lane are the piers of the Ward Line, and to the north as far as Burling Slip are the piers of the United Fruit Steam- ship Line, these two lines going to West Indies, Mexico, Central and northern South America. At the foot of Fulton St. is Fulton Ferry, and adjoining is the wholesale fish market. The fishing boats land here in the evening and discharge their cargo, which is stored in refrigerators or packed in barrels. In the early morning the retail dealers come with their wagons to cart away their wares. Those familiar with the famous fish market of London will miss here the picturesque costumes and language, the odors and confu- sion of Billingsgate. Opposite the fish market is Fulton Market.

Fulton St. is the only street south of Houston running from river to river. At the corner of William St. is the Royal Building, and adjoining it is the Underwriter Building. On the building at

68

King's Hozu to See New York.

the northwest corner of William and John Sts. is a tablet stating that this was the site of the Battle of Golden Hill, fought on Jan. 19, 1770. New York lives in the present and looks forward to the future. It shows little reverence for the past and this battle, in which the first blood was shed in the Revolution, is an almost forgotten incident, hardly mentioned in history. The building still standing at 122 William St. was the Golden Hill Tavern, in front of which the battle was fought.

At the corner of John and Dutch St. is the 16-story Hilliard Building, and nearly opposite is the famous JOHN ST. METHO- DIST CHURCH, the "Cradle of ^lethodism" in America. The original church was built in 1768. The present building, erected in 1841, is owned by the Church at large, its management being in the hands of trustees elected by the General Conference of the M. E. Church. It contains many relics of the first church, includ- ing the clock presented by John Wesley, the founder of the sect.

HUDSON TERMINAL BUILDINGS. Churc-li St., CoitUuidt to Fulton St.

King's Hozc to Sec Xen' York. G9

Going back to Maiden Lane, we pass two large buildings filled with jewelry manufacturers and dealers. At Xo. 17 is the Silver- smiths' Building, and adjoining it is the Jewelers' Building. A tablet on the former building gives a short history of the street. This is the center of the jewelry trade, and visitors will be more interested in the shop windows than in the si/^e of the buildings. Crossing Broadway to Cortlandt St., we go west toward North River, passing the Cortlandt St. side of the City Investing Building. At the northwest corner of Church St. are the HUD- SOX f ERMIXAL BUILDIXGS, covering the two blocks from Fulton to Cortlandt St., between Greenwich and Church St. Above ground they consist of two buildings identical in construction, the upper floors joined by bridges which span Dey St. This, the larg- est office building in the world, 22 stories high, covers a ground space of 70.000 square feet. It has 4,000 offices, with a day popu- lation estimated at 10.000. On the lowxr floor is the terminal of the Hudson River Tunnels and an arcade which is a business street in itself. Beside the main entrance to the southerly building is the map store of C. S. Hammond & Co., where all kinds of maps may be had.

We go south on Church St. to Liberty, then west. On Liberty St., east of Church St., is the building of the Fidelity and Casualty Company. At West St. is the Central Building, and one block south, at the corner of Cedar and West St., is the 23-story West St. Building. This is the highest building along the water front north of the Whitehall Building, at the Battery, and a conspicuous land- mark from the river. On the water front are the ferries of the Central R. R. of N. J. and West Shore R. R. at Liberty St., Pennsylvania R. R. at Cortlandt St., Delaware, Lackawanna & Western R. R. north of Cortlandt St. and the Fall River Line at Fulton St. -Here WASHIXGTOX MARKET is reached. This was, a generation ago, the great depot and distributing center for meat and produce, and while the vicinity still holds many whole- sale produce houses, the business done in the market building itself is mainly retail. The wholesale meat market was moved to the West Washington Market, at the foot of W. 12th St., and in front of it is the market wagon stand, leaving Washington Mar- ket a small retail market for transient customers. Washington Market and Fulton Market are the last of the score or more meat and produce markets that were scattered along the water front a generation ago.

On Fulton St. is St. Christopher's Chapel and dispensary, at 209. and the Evening Mail Building east of Church St.. opposite St. Paul's Churchyard. We reach the subway station at Broadway.

Fulton to Ckambers Street

ROUTE. Fulton St. subicav station to Park Ron' (Cit\ Hall Park), to Nezv Chambers St., to Diiane, Rose, Pearl (Franklin S^'l-), Ferry, Cliff, Beekman, Nassau, Ann, Vesey, Church, Barclay, West, Chambers, City Hall Subway.

A SHORT block north of Fulton St., at Ann, is the beginning of Park Row. The granite structure at the junction of Park Row and Broadway is the Federal Building, usually spoken of as the Post Office. It houses the main. Post Office for Manhattan and the Bronx, the Law Institute and the Federal Courts. The building has a frontage of 89 ft., its sides are 280 ft. long and the rear facing the park is 277 ft. The postal facilities, which were ample when the building was opened in 1875, are now entirely inadequate to the needs of the city, and a new Post Office has just been completed on Eighth Ave., between 31st and 33d Sts. There are in Alanhattan and the Bronx one main Post Office, 44 branch offices and 255 substations. The receipts of the New York office in 1912 w^ere nearly $25,000,000, the expenses less than $9,000,000. In all Greater New York there are 29 main offices, 81 branch offices and 428 substations.

On Park Row, opposite the Post Office, is the 29-story Park Row Building, which at the time of its erection, in 1899, was the highest building in the world. The foundation is 75 ft. below the street, and the top of the towers is 382 ft. above the street. The building rests upon 4,000 piers driven through the earth to bed rock. The twin towers stand out conspicuously from the mass of high buildings around it, when approaching the city by water.

On the next block is the Potter Building, and adjoining it is the beautiful granite front building formerly occupied by the New York Times. The building faces Printing House Sq., the open space of which contains a statue of Benjamin Franklin. This part of Park Row is still called Newspaper Row, although sev- eral of the great newspapers have deserted the neighborhood. At the northern corner of Spruce St. is the Tribune Building, with a statue of Horace Greeley, the founder of the Tribune, at the office entrance. On the opposite corner of Spruce St., with the entrance on Nassau St.. is the 23-story office building of the American Tract Society. Adjoining the 20-story Tribune Build- ing is the 5-story N. Y. Sun Building, formerly Lovejoy's Hotel, erected in 1811 as the home of Tammany Hall.

On the opposite corner of Frankfort St. stands the Pulitzer 70

King's IIozv to Sec Xczc York. 71

f^

r

^ • t

^i-jf

FEDERAL BUILDING. U. S. Tost Office and Courts.

Building, better known as the World Building. ^ Its high dome, which at the time of its erection, in 1890, projected far above the city's skyline, is now overshadowed by the larger buildings around it. Visitors are admitted to the observation platform on top of the dome. The World Building adjoins the entrance to the Brooklyn Bridge, where construction work is at present under way for improved transit facilities.

CITY HALL PARK is the ancient cow pasture of the Dutch and the Commons of the English. A corner, now the two blocks west of Nassau St. and north of Ann St., was deeded awav in Dutch times, and the lower corner was sold in 1869 to the Fed- eral Government for the Post Office Building, leaving about 8^ acres of park land. The City Hall, built between 1803 and 1812, was at the time of its completion on the outskirts of the city, and while marble was used for its front and sides, brown stone was used for the rear, where few would see it. The build- ing contains the Mayor's office, chambers of the Board of Alder- men, City Library and various other municipal offices, some of which will be transferred to the new Municipal Building. The building also houses a police station and the ^Marriage License Bureau. On the second floor is the Aldermanic Chamber, with

72

Kin,^'s How to See New York.

HALL OF RECORDS.

a beautifully decorated ceiling, and the Governor's Room, the show place of the building. Here is Trumbull's equestrian por- trait of Washington, and portraits of other national characters. the furniture used by the first Federal Congress, the chair used by Washington at his inauguration, his desk and a number of other historic relics. These rooms are open to the public and are well worth a visit. In front of the City Hall is the statue of Nathan Hale.

Behind the City Hall and fronting on Chambers St. is the County Court House, erected between 1861 and 1867, but the dome which formed part of the plan was never completed. The erection of this building gave the Tweed Ring, a combination of dishonest officials, the opportunity to rob the city of millions of dollars. The total cost to the city was about $12,000,000, over $1,000,000 going for furniture alone. It is a magnificent piece of architecture, but faults and omissions in its construction are still occasionally cropping up. Across Chambers St. is the Emigrant Industrial Savings Bank. The brown-stone building adjoining

King's IIoz>.' to See Neiv )'ork\ 73

the County Court Mouse, is the old City Court House, of no special interest. At the corner of Chambers and Centre St. is the new Hall of Records, an elaborately decorated marble build- ing, opened in 1911 and costing $10,000,000. The figures and groups of statuary on the exterior are by Martiny and Bush- Brown. The building contains the offices of the Sur^ogates, Register and Commissioner of Records.

^MUNICIPAL BUILDING, the grandest and highest muni- cipal building in the world, covers three irregular city blocks. The building has 26 stories, rising to a height of 330 ft. above the street, surmounted by a tower 210 ft. high, and holding eight stories. The total height from the subway arcade to the top of the 24-ft. figure on the tower is 560 ft. The principal front, facing Centre St., is 448 ft. long, the rear on Park Row is 361 ft., the Diiane St. side is 339 ft. and the Tryon Row side, facing the south, is 71 ft. long. The foundation is 130 ft. below the street level and 90 ft. below water level. The cost of the building, when completed, will be about $10,000,000. It will house all the city departments except the Mayor's office and the chambers of the Board of Aldermen, and offices required bv close subordinates of the Mayor and Aldermen and the Police, Fire and Dock Departments. The various departments which will be housed in the new buildmg now occupy rented quarters in buildings at an annual cost to the citv of $509,420.

Passing through the arcade in the Municipal Building, a short distance east of Park Row is the building of the Newsboys' Lodg- ing House, at the junction of New Chambers and Duane Sts. There is perhaps no philanthropic work which has given more brilliant results and which has been more efficacious in preventing crime and vice than this home, established by J. Loving Bruce. The little feljows pay a nominal sum for their lodgings and meals ; they are trusted if they are "broke," and are encouraged to save and' lead clean lives without becoming effeminate.

At the corner of Duane and Rose Sts. is the Rhinelander Building, on the site of the Rhinelander Sugar House, which was used as a prison for American soldiers in the war for independ- ence. Imbedded in the wall on the Rose St. side, adjoinmg the entrance, is a barred window of the old sugar house.- The build- ing is occupied by the printing plant of the Nezv York Ameriean and Journal, and other printing and allied concerns. A short block north (away from the Bridge viaduct) brings us back to New Chambers St., at a spot where several streets cross, and the stranger is apt to become confused. He turns to the left at the corner of Rose St. into Pearl St., which is here a wide thorough-

74 King's How to See Nezv York.

fare. Going one block to the right on Pearl St. is Franklin Sq., where the bridge structure crosses over the "L" station. On the pier, near the Dover St. corner, a bronze plate states that it is the site of the Walter Franklyn House, which Washington occu- pied during the first year of his presidency. Cherry St., the nar- row street running north from the square, was the Fifth Avenue of that day, and a few of the houses, now slum tenements, still remain. Washington's Staff lived at No. 29. At. No. 27 Cherry St., Capt. Chester Reid lived, and here the first American flag of the present design was made. John Hancock lived at No. 5. At the corner of Dover St. is the Richard K. Fox Building, part of which occupies the site of the Walton Mansion. It was the «"le- gance of this building and the wealth of its owner that led the supporters of the Stamp Act to assert the ability of the colonists to pay taxes. Opposite is the Harper Publishing House.

Going one block south we reach Peck Slip, which runs east to the river, and Ferry St., which runs west. Peck Slip, which ex- tended to near Pearl St., was the original ferry sli,j to Long Island. Going up Ferry St. to Cliff St., we are in the heart of the hides and leather district. The Schieren Building on the southwest corner has a tablet stating that ancient tanning vats were discovered while digging the foundations of this building, this locality was once Beekman's Swamp, and it is still known as the Swamp. The street south of Ferry St., Beekman St.. has an old residence of the Beekman family at the northeast corner of Gold St. At Beekman and Nassau Sts. are four large office build- ings, and several more are on Nassau St. This part of the street is so crowded about 5 o'clock, when the great buildings empty their thousands of day inhabitants, that the street is like a living mass slowly moving northward. At Ann and Nassau Sts. is the old Bennett Building, once used by the N. Y. Herald. Going up Ann St. to Park Row, we cross Broadway to Vesey St. Opposite St. Paul's Churchyard are the Real Estate Exchange and Evening Post Building, and at the corner of Church St. is the 18-story Underwood Building, and facing it offices of Trinity Parish and St. Paul's Chapel.

Going up Church St. to Barclay St., the wholesale crockery district is reached. St. Peter's R. C. Church, at the corner, is the oldest R. C. Church in the city and occupies the site of the first church of that denomination in the city. At the foot of Barclay St. is the Delaware, Lackawanna & Western R. R. Ferry to Hoboken. We turn eastward at Chambers St., pass the old hos- pital near Greenwich St., Cosmopolitan Hotel at corner of West Broadway and the side of the Chemical Bank near Broadway.

Chambers to Canal Street

EAST Of BROADWAY.— ROUTE. Brooklyn Bridge Subwav Station, Centre St. to White St.. Baxter St., south to Park St., Mott St., Pell St., Doyers St. to Chatham Sc]., New Bozuery, Madison, Catherine, E. Broadz\.'av to Jefferson, return Canal, Boicery to "L" Road at Chatham Sq., or Subzvay at Brook- lyn Bridge.

A CIVIC center designed to hold the principal p'rtblic buildings has been proposed and plans have been provisionally adopted. This will include the present City Hall Park, and the space north of the Municipal Building as far as Worth St., between Lafayette St. and Park Row. Part of this area has been condemned for public use and the design for a new court house to replace the old structure behind the City Hall has been accepted. This building will be unique among public buildings, being a circular structure seven stories in height, surrounding a circular court, and designed to hold all the courts in the city except the Federal courts, the local courts of other counties in Greater New York and local Municipal and Magistrates' Courts.

At Leonard St. is the Tombs or City Prison, occupying the block

PKuPOSED COURT HOUSE.

76

King's Hoiv to See New York.

from Leonard to Frank- lin St. and Centre to Lafayette St. The orig- inal prison, erected on this site in 1838, was the most perfect example of ancient Egyptian archi- tecture outside of Egypt. It consisted of a series of connected buildings, inclosed within a high prison wall. The pres- ent eight-story building, erected about 1900, cost about $1,000,000. Visit- ors are admitted. On the next block from Frank- lin to White St. stands the Criminal Courts Building, a magnificent red brick and terra-cotta structure, which is joined to the Tombs by a bridge spanning Franklin St. This bridge, popularly called the "Bridge of Sighs," is modeled after the famous Bridge of Sighs of Venice. Aside from the general appear- ance of the building and its ornamental inner court, the principal attraction is a set of mural paintings in the room of the Criminal Term, Part I of the Supreme Court. Spectators are admitted to all court trials. The Tombs and the Criminal Courts Building are built upon an insecure foundation, the site being once a deep lake, which has been filled in. On the block above is the main office of the Department of Health. Going one block east on White St., then south, we reach [Mulberry Bend Park, officially called Columbus Park, with an area of 2^ acres. Prior to 1896, the site of this park was covered by ramshackle houses, squalid rookeries and alleys, housing the most disreputable element of the city. This was the notorious Five Points district, which, it was said, had no counterpart in the world for viciousness, crime and squalor. At the southwest corner of the park is a wide space in front of the

THE To:\rp>s.

Criminal Courts Buildiua- in distance.

King's Hozv to See Nezv York. 77

point formed by the junction of Park and Worth Sts., called PARADISE PARK. A few of the old houses still remain in the vicinity of these two parks, but business houses are being erected around them and the population which, in the '60's and '70's, was mainly Irish and American, with Jews in Baxter St., is now almost wholly Italian, poor but respectable. Where policemen were formerly compelled to walk in pairs in broad daylight for their own protection, the stranger may now walk unprotected at mid- night, providing he remains sober and minds his own business. The east side of the park is Mulberry St., "Little Italy." The best time to visit this section is the early morning when the street is lined with pushcarts, from which Italian vegetables and other food is sold to the Italian housewives. The religious processions on certain saints' days are intensely interesting. The processions take place at night through streets that are lit by thousands of tiny lamps festooned from walk to walk. These celebrations present a phase of foreign life with which the American is unfamiliar.

We go east on Park St. one block to Mott St., and are in the heart of CHINATOWN. At the corner of Park and Mott Sts. is the R. C. Church of the Transfiguration. The building was erected in 1801 by the Zion Lutheran Church, which later became P. E., and now, joined with St. Timothy Church, is one of the fashionable P. E. Churches in the city. The building has been a Catholic church since 1853. Mott St., from Pell St. to Park Row. Pell St., which runs from Mott St. to the Bowery, and Doyers St., a crooked little street running from Pell to the Bowery at Chat- ham Sq., are occupied almost entirely by Chinamen. Here are their joss houses or temples, their restaurants, opium dens, gam- bling-houses, stores and homes. A Chinese theatre in Dovers St. was recently closed. The only places open to visitors without a guide are the joss houses, restaurants and stores. There are two joss houses to which the public are admitted, the one at No. 16 Mott St. being the more elaborate. A fee of 10 cts. is demanded by the old priest who, in pidgin English, explains the object of the shrine, the elaborate carvings, the utensils employed in the Chinese wedding ceremonies, etc. The stores have English-speak- ing attendants and are reliable in their dealings with visitors. Visitors need have no fear about entering or dealing in these places. There are a number of elaborate Chinese restaurants in Mott and Pell Sts., which cater especially to white visitors. These have menus printed in Chinese and English, knives and forks are served instead of chop sticks, the attendants speak English and the diners are almost exclusively whites. The true Chinese res- taurants where the Orientals congregate are small, poorly fur-

78 King's Hozc to See Nezv York.

nished and are rarely visited by whites. The visitor cannot gain access to an opium joint without a guide, and unless he is able to secure a police official, he must depend upon a local guide. There are always a number of men in the street who approach parties of visitors and offer their services as guides. These men look disreputable, their language is coarse and slangy, but they can show what they promise to show — opium smoking. It may be a real Chinese opium den where the Chinamen lie cuddled up on tables, smoking opium, oblivious of the presence of strangers, or it

CHINATOWN. Doyers St.

may be a private joint rigged up in Chinese fashion, where one person, generally a white man or woman, will smoke for the bene- fit of visitors, explain the process and will then offer them the pipe to smoke. The usual charge is $2 a person, half of which goes to the joint-keeper. The usual time for visiting Chinatown is at night, but anything that can be seen at night can be seen by day.

We go through Pell St. to Doyers St. Near the bend is an arcade running through to Mott St. Xear the Bowerv is the Res- cue Mission, which is crowded with whites and Chinese every night. At the Bowery is Chatham Sq. In Oliver St., a short block from Chatham Sq., is a Baptist Church, organized in 1795.

Going down New Bowery we pass a small cemeterv, the oldest Jewish cemetery in the United States, opened about 1656 by the

King's Hozv to See Nezo York. 71)

Congregation Shearth Israel, which still cares for it. In Roose- velt St., a few feet from New Bowery, is St. Joachim R. C. Church, popularly known as the Ragpickers' Church. Turning at Roosevelt St. into Madison St., we pass through the Greek colony, and we can here observe another phase of Xew York's cosmopolitan population. Three blocks away is Catherine St., on the corner of which is the N. Y. Port Societies Mariners' Church. The streets running northeast from Catherine St. are tilled with cheap tenements, occupied by Russian, Polish and Roumanian Jews. We go up Catherine St. to E. Broadway, passing at Henry St. P. S. 1, an enormous school, taking in almost every national- ity of the world, then along E. Broadway. This street was at one time a fashionable residential street, and a few of the old houses, now converted into tenements, still remain.

The residents are now almost exclusively Russian, Polish and Roumanian Jews, slightly better situated than those in neighbor- ing streets. At Market St. we pass under the approach to the new Manhattan Bridge. On this street, just south of E. Broadway, is the Presbyterian Church of Land and Sea, dedicated 1819.

Facing the block from Rutgers to Jefiferson St., is the William H. Seward Park, 3^ acres. This park, opened in 1903, w^as the first of the many small playground parks that are now scattered throughout the city. Facing the park on the E. Broadway side are two prominent buildings, one the ofifice of a private bank, the other an 11-story cream-colored brick building, occupied by the great Jewish daily, Foncard. At the corner of Jefferson St. is the large red brick building of the Educational Alliance, a philan- thropic institution, having for its main object the Americanization of the foreign Jew, without destroying Jewish ideals. It contains a kindergarten and classes where foreigners, children and adults, are taught English and the principles of American government, besides the ordinary school subjects. The marble front building facing the park on the east, between E. Broadway and Division St., is a branch of the Xew York Public Library, and the building directly north of the park, between Essex and Norfolk Sts., is a public school. Edgar Allan Poe once lived at No. 195. Looking down E. Broadway, the view is closed by the factory with red tower of R. Hoe & Co., makers of printing presses, established 1804.

We turn back at this point through Canal St. to the Bowery, passing the 11-story Jarmolowsky Building at Orchard St. and the 6-story Jewelers' Building at Forsyth St. The upper floors of the latter are occupied exclusively by manufacturing jewelers and dealers in precious stones.

At the Bowery, occupying the block from Canal to Bayard St.,

Cotirt House CITY HALL PARK.

Municipal Bldg. City Hall

Scene of official eeremonies. Cost of city goveri

is _ the entrance to the new ^Manhattan Brid.se. Opposite the bridge entrance is the Thaha Theatre, one of the few remaining relics of the days when the Bowery was famous and before it became notorious. The New York Theatre, opened on this site in 1826, replaced the Bull's Head Tavern, famous in Revolutionary days. It was here that Washington was met by the body of citizens as the British departed Nov. 25, 1783. The New York Theatre, later called the Bowery Theatre, opened as the largest and most sumptuous plaj^house in America, and for over 50 years it remained one of New York's most famous theatres. It became a. German playhouse in 1879. The present building was erected in 184:7. Adjoining it on the north is a small building, occupied from 1859 to 1912 as an amusement resort, called Atlantic Garden, the garden part being an open court in the rear. This was the last of the open-air gardens which were popular amusement places in the city for over two centuries. Before 1878, when the "L" structure was erected and darkened the street, this part of the SO

f>v.y2,

3un" "Tribune" ■11.4.J0; largest

41 Park How items — schools

Totter UlJg Post Office

$;J7,0l>(j,:i55, interest ou debt. $38,453,876.

Bowery was the brightest, gayest and liveliest street in the city. We are now back in Chatham Sq. and can take the "L" road or go down Park Row to City Hall. On Mulberry St., a few doors from Park' Row, reached through an alley, is the Bismark Hotel, the largest of the poor 10-ct. lodging-houses. Near and in Baxter St. are a few of the old-time second-hand clothing stores which made Chatham St., as Park Row was formerly called, notorious. There is nothing else of interest until we reach City Hall Park.

WEST OF BROADWAY.— ROUTE. Chambers St., Sixth Ave. "L" Station, Duane, Hudson, Beach, W. Broadway, Canal, West, Desbrosses to Ninth Ave. "L" Station.

THIS section of the city is almost w^holly commercial, with a few^ old residences, and where these are torn down commer- cial houses take their place. Going north to Duane St.. and toward the Hudson River, there is a little patch of green at Hudson and Duane Sts. It is the last remnant of the Annecke Jans farm,

81

Kill's Hozi.' to Sec Xczi' York. 83

which was sold to Gov. Lovelace in 1671 and liecame part of the Duke's, later King's and Queen's farm. This farm was granted in 1705 to Trinity Church, and that church still owns large par- cels of land in this vicinity. In 1731 heirs of Annecke Jans claimed that the transfer of 1671 was imperfect and sued for the land. Although there have been repeated suits, every one being decided in favor of Trinity Church, descendants still claim this land and sometimes attempt to enforce their claim.

On Hudson St., at Jay, is the New York Hospital House of Relief, The block from Beach to Laight St. and extending back to Varick is occupied by the freight depot of the N. Y, C. & H. R. R. R. It is a commonplace brick structure, having, however, an elaborate bronze group, representing Commerce and Transporta- tion, in the pediment. It occupies the site of St. John's Park, which was surrounded by fashionable residences half a century or more ago. Some of these buildings are still standing, being now poor tenements. The house Xo. 36 Beach St. was the resi- dence of John Ericsson, the inventor of the "Monitor," until his death, and the adjoining house was once the residence of J, Feni- more Cooper. On the corner of Varick St. is the new police sta- tion of the Fourth Precinct, and just to the north is St, John's Chapel, of Trinity parish, now closed on account of slack attend- ance. The small triangular plot at Beach St. and W. Broadway is all that remains of St. John's Park, Two blocks north is Canal St., the width of which is due to the fact that it was at one time a creek flowing through a marsh. The sides were boarded up, making it a canal with a causeway across it about W. Broadway. The canal was later partly filled in, leaving the stream to flow in the sewer, now several feet below. We go up Canal St., to West, then south, where we can witness the enormous water front traflfic.

At Des-brosses St. is the pier of the PIUDSOX RIVER DAY LIXE, established in 1863 and now operating the finest fleet of river steamers in the world, including the "Washington Irving," "Hendrick Hudson," "Robert Fulton" and "Albany." The "Wash- ington Irving," which is the most sumptuous and commodious craft ever operated on inland waters, carries 6,000 passengers, is 42.') ft. long and 85 ft. beam. Trips on these steamers up the Hudson to Albany or way landings, or making the one-day outing to West Point, Xewburgh or Poughkeepsie and return, form the most delightful excursions around New York. Uptown landings at the foot of W, 42d St, and W, 129th St.

The Pennsylvania R. R. Ferry adjoins. We turn up Des- brosses St, to the Xinth Ave. "L" station, as the streets south to Reade, near the river, are occupied chiefly by produce merchants.

Canal to Houston Street

EAST OF BOWERY.— ROUTE, Grand St. Station Third Ave. "L," Grand St., Ludlow St., Hester. Clinton, Delancey, tO' Columbia, to Stanton, to Willett, to Rivington, to Chrystie, to Houston, to Bowery, to the Elevated at Houston or Grand St.

THIS tour takes us through the Ghetto district and part of the Bowery. It is the section usually referred to when speaking of the "lower east side/' Grand St. is the principal business street of this section. At the corner of Chrystie St. is the new Grand Theatre, on the site of Lord & Taylor's early store. On the cor- ner of Ludlow St. is Public School 37. A few steps north of Grand St. is the County Jail, a plain red brick structure where Federal prisoners and other prisoners who are under personal charge of the sheriff are lodged. It is facetiously called the home of the alimony club, as most of the prisoners are men who decline to carry out the court's decree to pay alimony to their wives. The white painted brick building on the Grand St. side is a public school, formerly the Essex Alarket,

Going south on Ludlow St. to Hester, we are in the heart of the Ghetto. The streets are crowded with push carts, the walks littered with stands and baskets from which the vendors sell their wares, and a pushing, clamoring mass of humanity — women with their market baskets, crying children and babies, and here and there a man forcing his way through the mass while the women and peddlers hurl imprecations at him — form a scene of confusion which has no counterpart in the world. Here is a sink of dirt and poverty, yet out of it rose men and women who have achieved world-wide fame. Crime is exceedingly rare, for while bargaining and bickering are the rule of trade, even petty theft is looked upon as a heinous offense, and the tin pan and dish rag are the most deadly weapons they employ upon each other in their altercations. We go east on Hester St., passing, opposite Seward Park, P. S. 62, one of the largest in* the city, to Clinton St. and up Clinton St., vv^hich is like Hester St. for a block or two. Just north of Grand St. is Clinton St. Hall, an amusement and meeting place erected as part of a philanthropic project to furnish places where dancing and other amusements can be had, free from objectionable features and at minimum cost.

At the corner of Delancey St. is the 13th precinct police sta- tion, the newest and largest building of its kind in the city. Here is also the approach to the Williamsburg Bridge. An odd fea- 84

King's Hozi' to Sec Nezv York. 85

tiire, showing the extent of Jewish traffic, is the signs over the trolley-car entrances, giving the destinations of the cars in Hebrew and English. From Pitt St. eastward, Delancey St. is partly covered by the bridge approach, and here is the retail fish and vegetable market, also stalls where other goods are sold. Those who can stand the dirt and smell will find here a most interesting sociological study, and the bargain hunter who is an adept at bickering may pick up real bargains.

We go north on Sheriff St. to Houston St., pass Hamilton Fish Park, between Stanton and Houston St. Two blocks east is P. S. 188, the largest school building in the workl. Going back on Houston St. and through Willett to Rivington, then west, we see another sight such as on Hester St. Here are Hungarian and Galician Jews who, coming from a more liberal government than the Russians and Poles, are less clannish and more readily adopt American ways. An idea of the density of the population in this section can be gained from the fact that on and within two blocks of Rivington St. there are 16 public schools holding over 30,000 school children. At No. 95 Rivington St. is the College Settle- ment, and at the corner of Eldridge St. is the University Settle- ment, the latter established in 1886. It has a kindergarten, 145 clubs, gymnasium, baths, lecture and concert halls, etc. This is one of the most efficient of the local philanthropies. Visitors are welcome. At Rivington and Chrystie Sts. is ^lills Hotel No. 2. Going north on Chrystie St. to Houston, we pass Italian quarters. On the Houston St. block between Chrysti^e and the Bowery are the Jewish Theatre, at the corner of Chrystie St., and St. Augus- tin's Chapel of Trinity Church, built upon an L-shaped plot.

We turn south at the Bowery. It is no longer the Bowery "where they say such things and they do such things" of the song. Some low drinking-places and cheap lodging-houses still remain, but the dives, dens and brothels are things of the past. On the block between Stanton and Rivington Sts. is an Italian theatre, the famous Bowery Mission and, adjoining it, the 10-story Sal- vation Army Hotel The Bowery Mission has acquired a world- wide reputation through its "bread line." Soon after midnight the homeless and hungry collect here, form a line and at 1 A. ■NI. they enter one by one to receive their dole of a cup of coffee and a half loaf of bread. The distribution attracts a number of sight-seers nightly. On the block below, opposite Spring St., is >Iiner's People's Theatre. This has been a theatrical site since Tony Pastor opened his theatre here in 1865. The present thea- tre was opened in 1883 as a fashionable theatre, but it could not attract the fashionable audience for which it was intended. The

86 Kiiifi's Hozv to See Nezv York.

next street is Delancey, the entrance to the Wilhamsburg Bridge. On the next block, near Broome St., is the Royal Theatre. At the corner of Broome St., is the Bowery branch of the Y. M. C. A., with a dormitory and restaurant, where the needy can get a meal for a nickel. Near Grand St. is the Bowery Savings Bank, one of the strongest savings institutions in the country. It has about 145,000 accounts, over $100,000,000 on deposit and nearly $10,000,- 000 surplus. On the corner is the Bowery Bank, a national bank.

WEST OF BOWERY.— ROUTE. Canal St. Subzvay Station, up Lafayette St. to Grand, Centre, Prince, Mott, Houston to Lafayette, to Bleecker St. Subzvay Station.

THIS is an old section, having little of special interest to the sight-seer except the new Police Headquarters, the old R. C. Cathedral and a few business houses having a world-wide repu- tation. Lafayette St., formerly called Elm St., w^as widened to relieve the congestion of traffic on Broadway.

At Howard St., one block north of Canal, is the new building of THE BRADSTREET COMPANY, proprietors of the widely known mercantile agency, and contains its printing and bookbind- ing departments. This company, established over sixty years ago, with offices and connections throughout the civilized world, issues a quarterly volume containing the commercial ratings of bankers, merchants, manufacturers, etc. The information relating to mer- cantile credits which it supplies to its clients enables them to enter into business relations with merchants in any other city however remote. It also publishes weekly "BRADSTREET'S," a journal of trade, finance and public economy.

At the northwest corner of Grand St. is the old headquar- ters of the Board of Education. One block east is the POLICE HEADQUARTERS, a granite and limestone building, sur- mounted by a fine dome. Here are the offices of the Commissioner and his Deputies, the Detective Division, Rogues' Gallery, cells for criminal prisoners, drill halls, etc. The police force consists of about 10,850 men, including 9,000 patrolmen, 1,350 higher offi- cers, 25 surgeons, 6 chaplains, 70 matrons, 478 detectives, 60 men in the harbor police (Police Steamboat Patrol), about 480 mounted men, 75 motor-cycle and bicycle men. Nearly 500 offi- cers and men are engaged in regulating traffic. The entire force is stationed in 100 precincts. There are also five traffic precincts, a harbor squad with three sub-stations, a bridge squad at each of the East River bridges and several minor squads (sanitary, tenement- house, public office, etc.). Just east, on Broome St., is the Broome St. Tabernacle. Proceeding northward, we pass Kenmare St., the

BKADSTKKKT'S BUILDING. Lafayette St., cor. Howard.

87

King's Hozv to See Nezv York.

IHJLICE IIEADQUA UTKUS.

newly opened extension of Delancey St., which leads to the Will- iamsburg Bridge, and the small Kenmare Park, and at Spring St., Centre St., here called Cleveland PI, joins Lafayette. Just north of Spring St. is the engine-house of the large searchlight used hi fighting night fires. At the northwest corner of Prince and La- fayette Sts. is an old shabby brick house, now used for manufac- turing purposes. It was here that President Monroe died on July 4, 1831. Going east on Prince St., at Alott St. is St. Patrick's Church, formerly the Cathedral, surrounded by a brick wall. The church was erected in 1818 in what was then the outskirts of the city. There are some Catholics of local prominence buried in the churchyard. On the southwest corner is a branch of the R. C. Orphan Asylum, and on Mott St., opposite the church, is the industrial school of the Children's Aid Society. Going west on Houston St., the large marble front building on Mulberry St., just north of Houston St., is the old Police Headquarters. At La- fayette St. is the Puck Building. There is nothing of interest in this part of the city west of Broadway except the waterfront trafific along West St., which may be reached bv street car. The subway is a block north, at Bleecker and Lafayette Sts.

Houston to 14th Street

EAST OF BROADWAY.— ROUTE. Houston St. "L" Station. Bozi'ery, jrf St., Great Jones St., Lafayette St., Astor Pi, Third Ave., 13th St., First Ave., 12th St., Second Ave., 6th St., Ave. A, yfh St., Ave. B, 3d St., Ave. A, 2d St., Second Ave., ist St., Bowery to Houston St.

THIS is an interesting section, containing many prominent sites and buildings and odd phases of life. The "L" railroad which runs here on a single line of pillars was called by De Lesseps an audacious piece of engineering.

Going up the Bowery, we pass the Hadley Rescue Mission, a few doors north of Houston St. The building was formerly the Germania Assembly Rooms, a dance and meeting hall built on the site of Gotham Gardens, one of the most popular amusement resorts in the city in the '50's. Adjoining the Assembly Rooms was, a few years ago, a notorious dive which became known as Suicide Hall, on account of the many suicides committed there. At Xo. 38 Bleecker St., west of the Bowery, is the N. Y. Protes- tant Episcopal City Mission. Bond St., the next one north and only tw^o short blocks, running to Broadway, was a fashionable residence street. Washington Irving lived at No. 4.3 and the Jay family at No. 20. Corner 3d St. is the Dry Dock Savings Insti- tution, occupying one of the few artistic buildings on the old thor-

THE BOWERY. NORTH FROM GRAND ST.

89

90 King's Hozc to Sec Nezv York.

oughfare. Great Jones St., which begins opposite 3d St. and runs to Broadway, has one of the show engine stations of the Fire Department. At the corner of Lafayette St. is the ^Mission of the Immaculate Virgin, a home for destitute Roman Catholic children. It houses 375 boys from 14 to 18 years of age. A branch at Mt. Loretto, Staten Island, has 2,000 orphan children. There is also a branch for colored orphan children and a summer home for boys. The bronze statue of Father Drumgoole, the founder, stands in front of the building.

The two blocks from Great Jones St. to Astor PI. were opened in 1826, during the visit of Lafayette, and named after him. In 1899 Elm St. was widened and cut through to Lafayette PI, and the whole street called Lafayette St. At 4th St. is the DeVinne Press, a large printing establishment. On the west side, north of 4th St., is the Diocesan House of the P. E. Church, a pretty w^hite Gothic building. Near Astor PI. is the Colonnade, an old structure, formerly a collection of residences, in one of which the first John Jacob Astor lived. Opposite it is the building occupied by the Astor Library before it moved to the new building on Fifth Ave. Facing Astor PI. on the north, is Wanamaker's new building ; on the west is the Mercantile Library. This is a pri- vate lilDrary, established in 1820, having a quarter of a million volumes which are loaned to subscribers. Near the subway en- trance is a statue of S. S. Cox, a former Congressman who cham- pioned the letter carriers in their efforts for better working conditions. After his death the letter carriers of the country contributed funds to erect this statue. At Fourth Ave., extending to Third Ave., are two noteworthy buildings. Cooper Union on the south and Bible House on the north. The BIBLE HOUSE, erected by the American Bible Society in 1852, was at that time the largest office building in America. It is now occupied by this society, several missionary societies and other bodies, philanthropic and commercial, also the offices of the Christian Herald.

COOPER UXIOX was built by Peter Cooper in 1857, to furnish free education to persons employed during the day. Its scope has been gradually enlarged until to-day full collegiate courses are given in day and evening schools, and there are classes in telegraphy, stenography and art (drawing, painting, modelling, wood-carving, etc.). All classes are free, but when the number of applicants for admission exceeds the capacity of the classes, special classes are formed in some of the art branches and a small charge is made. The building has a large lecture hall in the basement, where free lectures are given almost nightly during the wnnter months. A free library, with 55,000 volumes,

Kiiii^'s HcKc to Sec Xcic York.

91

COOPER UNION.

occupies an upper floor. It contains a complete set of Patent Office reports, and there are about 450 newspapers on file. The reading-room is open from 8 A. M. to 10 P. M. and is generally crowded in the evening. It is well worth a visit. In the little triangle south of the building stands a statue of Peter Cooper, erected from funds contributed by students of the schools. The Abram Hewitt Memorial Annex to the school was recently erected on the block on Third Ave. from 6th to 7th St., on the site of Tompkins Market, once the armory of the Seventh Regi- ment. Just -in the rear, on 7th St., is the Church of St. George, the only Ruthenian Greek Catholic Church in New York; it has 7,000 members. A branch of the Salvation Army is on Cooper Square, as the space south of Cooper Union is called.

Near the junction of Stuyvesant and 9th Sts., just east of Third Ave., is the Hebrew Technical Institute, a free, non-secta- rian technical school for boys, with night classes for day workers. Visitors are welcome. At 11th St. and Third Ave. is the Chil- dren's Court, a branch of the Court of Special Sessions, in which malefactors under 16 years of age are tried. These trials are interesting studies for the sociologist. A marble front building on Fourth Ave., facing 11th St., is the Grace Church Nursery, and just below is the Choir School where the choir boys live; they come from all over the country and sing in the church in

92 King's Hozv to See Nezv York.

exchange for their board, schooHng, etc. At 12th St. and Third Ave. is the Trow printing establishment, where the city directo- ries are printed. A bronze plate on the house on the northeast corner of 13th St. indicates the site of Gov. Stuyvesant's famous pear-tree. We go east on 13th St., passing on the corner of Second Ave. the New York Eye and Ear Infirmary, organized in 1820. Just beyond First Ave. there is an elaborate structure ex- tending to 14th St, the Grace Church Settlement. It includes a hospital, homes for old men, old women and children, a kinder- garten, cooking-school, gymnasium, clubs and classes.

Going down First Ave. to 12th St., the way is Tmed with push carts and vendor wagons. This is locally called "Paddy's Mar- ket." Twelfth St., in the vicinity of First Ave., the heart of an Italian colony, is notorious for the many bomb outrages perpe- trated by the Black Hand, a collection of Italian blackmailers. Going west on 12th St. to Second Ave., we pass the Elizabeth Home for Girls and come to a section which a generation ago was a fashionable quarter of the city, and only recently was the Keteltas Mansion, corner St. Mark's PI. (8th St.), the last of the famous mansions deserted.

Between 13th and 12th Sts. is the People's Hospital, a small non-sectarian institution supported almost wholly by Jews. On the block between 12th and 11th Sts. is St. Mark's Hospital. Cor- ner 11th St. is the old home of the N. Y. Historical Society, now a home for boys. Adjoining it is the Second Ave. Baptist Church, famous for its missionary work. Opposite this is St. Mark's P. E. Church, one of the historical churches of the city. It is on the site of the chapel erected by Gov. Stuyvesant near his house on bis farm. The land was given by one of his descendants to the P. E. Church, and a new church edifice was erected here in 1799. The Governor's body lies in a vault under the tablet in the east wall of the church. The churchyard contains the vaults of many eminent New York families. About in the center of the church- yard is the vault from which the body of A. T. Stewart, the millionaire merchant, was stolen on October 7, 1878. Just below 10th St. is the granite front of the Cafe Boulevard, a famous east side restaurant. The building itself was one of the largest of the fashionable mansions. Near 9th St. is the German Poli- klinik. Near St. Mark's PI. is the House of the Holy Family, a reformatorv for girls; visitors not admitted. Just below 7th St. is the :\Iiddle Collegiate Reformed Church, the successor of the jMiddle Dutch Church, one of the churches originating from the first church community, organized in 1628. Around the corner, on 6th St., to the east, is a Hebrew Neighborhood House, and

King's Hoiv to See Nezv York. 93

just beyond is St. Mark's Lutheran Church. It was on the excur- sion of the Sunday-school of this church that the steamboat "General Slocum" took fire and about 1,000 persons, mostly women and children, were killed in June, 1904. From Ave. A to Ave. B from 7th to 10th St. is Tompkins Sq., a park of 10^ acres, planned on the city map of 18U and purchased in 1834 for $93,350. The whole vicinity a generation ago was a German colonv, popularlv called '"Klein-Deutschland" (Little Germany). On Ave. B and' 8th St. is St. Brigid R. C. Church, once almost exclusively Irish, now mainly Italian. On the opposite corner is the Children's Aid Society. In no section of the city has the character of population changed so completely in one generation as in the section surrounding this park. A few of the old German establishments are still found on lower Ave. A and in the side streets, but the Hungarian Jew predominates. Going down Ave. B to 3d St., and west, we pass the R. C. Church of the Most Holy Redeemer, and on 2d St.. west of Ave. A, is St. Nicholas R. C. Church, organized in 1833, the first German R. C. Church in the city. Nearly opposite the church, facing on 2d St., is Har Moriah Hospital. On the block between First and Second Ave. is the Marble Cemetery. President Monroe was buried here before the removal of his body to Virginia. Adjoining is the La Salle Academv, and opposite is the Olivet Memorial Church. At the corner of Second Ave. is the New Kessler Theatre, a Jewish play- house. Going through 1st St. to the Bowery, a block which but a few years ago was one of the vilest in the city but now entirely cleared, a short block south is Houston St. and the "L" station,

WEST OF BROADWAY.— ROUTE. Bleecker St. Station, Sixth Ave. "L," Bleecker St., Grove to Christopher. Green- wich Ave., Jackson Sq., Eighth Ave., I2th St., West St., I4ih St., University PL, 8th St. to Subzmy.

THIS was the old village of Greenwich which, while never a separate community politically, had distinctive characteristics. It was known as the American Ward, most of its residents being descendants of the early stock who settled here in the beginning of the 19th century. Business is now converting this into a com- mercial district. The chief interest in this section lies in its local historical associations.

Proceeding up Bleecker St., through what was once a fashionable American and later the French quarter, we pass Mills Hotel No. 1, from Thompson to Sullivan St. These hotels are philanthropic institutions but not charities, and while erected to be simply self-supporting their popularity has made them prohtable. They

94 King's Hon' to See New York.

furnish the usual hotel accommodations to men who can pay only 25 to 35 cts. a day for meals and lodging. Where BleeckeV St. turns northward, is the R. C. Church of Madonna of Pompeii. Thomas Paine lived at No. 293, and died in a house near the cor- ner of Grove St., where we turn east to Christopher, one of the old village streets which still has a few of the old houses. Where the streets come together there is a small triangle called Chris- topher St. Park. At Waverly PL is the Northern Dispensary, which has been here since 1828, and on the northeast is the Switzer Institute and Home for Girls.

Christopher St. begins at Greenwich Ave., where that thor- oughfare joins Sixth Ave. At the junction is Jefferson Market, the only public market left which is not on a water front. Ad- joining the market building is the Jefferson Market Court House, a notable red brick building, with a circular tower surmounted by a pyramidal top. One of the night courts is held here. These courts were established to give speedy trial to persons arrested after the usual court hours. The Waverly, at No. 38 W. 10th St., is a probationary home to which fallen women are sometimes com- mitted. Greenwich Ave. is an anti-revolutionary thoroughfare, being part of the inland road to Greenwich. After the British landed at Kips Bay (E. 35th St,), Manhattan, after the Battle of Long Island, the Americans in the lower part of the city went up this road to Greenwich and then along roads from Greenwich to the upper part of the island. Greenwich Ave. now ends at Jack- son Sq., which was the village green a century ago. At 11th St. is St. Vincent's Hospital. Here Seventh Ave. begins. At 245 W. 13th St. is the Florence Crittenton Mission for fallen women, and nearer the corner a branch library. Here is Jackson Sq., which we cross and go down Eighth Ave., reaching Abingdon Sq. at 12th St. This was a fashionable section, almost exclusively American, about 1850, and some of the fashionable houses of that period are still standing on the north and east sides of the square. At the southwest corner of 12th St. is Trowmart Inn, a hotel for women, corresponding to the Mills Hotels for men.

We go through W. 12th St. to West St., where are more great piers. The large building on the block below is the Western Electric Company. Turning north on West St., we pass the build- ing of the American Seamen's Friends Society, presented by Mrs. Russell Sage. This society was founded in 1842, at No. 190 Cherry St. At Gansevoort St. are two markets, the West Washing- ton Market for meat and live poultry, on the west, and the Farm- ers' Market, an open space for farmers' wagons, on the east of West St. The time to see the activity of the Farmers' Market is

King's Hoiv to See Keiv York.

95

7 A. M. Bv 10 or 11 o'clock the business is over, and the farmers who have disposed of their stock depart, while the others cover their wagons and await more customers the next morning. At the southwest corner of this open space is one of the high-pres- sure pumping stations of the Fire Department, where electrically driven pump's supply water through special mains at such pressure that fire engines are unnecessary. This station is equipped to take salt water from the river if desired. On the river back of the market is a fire-boat station. At the foot of Little W. 12th St. is the beginning of the Chelsea Piers, described in the next chapter. We go two blocks north to 14th St., then eastward. At Eighth Ave. is the New York Savings Bank, on the north, and the New York County National Bank on the southwest corner. On the block between Seventh and Sixth Ave. is the American Head- quarters of the Salvation Army, occupying a large building at No. 120 and the adjoining old :\Iaxwell Mansion. Opposite is the Armory of the Ninth Coast Artillery, and next door is the 14th St. Theatre, which was opened as a French Theatre i" .1/^69 It is now used for photoplays. The block from Sixth to Fifth Ave. was famous for its department stores a generation ago. At the Sixth Ave. corner R. H. Macy introduced the department-store idea about 50 years ago. On this corner is now the 14th St. Store, one of the largest in the city. On the same block is Hearn's, an old-time establishment. On the opposite side of the street is the Bu- chanan ^Mansion, with grounds ex- tending to 15th St. The large brick building, which can be seen beyond the grounds,' is the New York Hos- pital. At University PI. we reach Union Sq. Going south on Univer- sity PI., we pass, at 12th St., the N. Y. Society Library, established in 1754. It is a" private library of over 100,000 volumes, free for reference. At Uth St. is the Hotel Albert, at 10th St. is the University PI. Presbyterian Church, established 1845, and at 9th St. the Lafayette, a French hotel. Turn east on Eighth St. to the sub- way at Astor PI. LINCOLN M()Nr.Mi:NT

14tk to 23(1 Street

EAST OF BROADWAY.— ROUTE. Fourteenth St. Subway, 13th St., Irving PL, 20th St. (Gramercy Park), Fourth Ave., 23d St., Second Ave., 14th St., Fourth Ave., Subzvay.

ON the south corner of Fourth Ave. and 15th St. is the Union Sq. Hotel and on the north corner the Union Sq. Savings Bank, formerh^ the Institution for the Savings of Merchants' Clerks. One block east of Fourth Ave. is Irving PI., a once fash- ionable thoroughfare which immense loft buildings are converting into a business street. At the corner of 15th St. is the Irving PI. Theatre, the chief German playhouse in the city. On the opposite corner the Consolidated Gas Company is erecting a 13-story build- ing. The lower part of the central structure is an old 7-story building, which the architects have been able to incorporate into the main structure by building on both sides, behind and above the other. The portion above the old structure is built upon 40-ton girders, supported at the ends by the sides of the new building, thereby relieving the old building of the weight of the super- structure.

The Nemo Corset Building is on the southwest corner of 16th St., and the Borgfeldt Building on the northwest.

The east side of the block, from 16th to 17th St., is taken up by the WASHINGTON IRVING HIGH SCHOOL, one of the two high schools for girls in Manhattan. The 8-story buildnig houses over 5,000 students and is in size and equipment unsur- passed among the public schools of the city or country. At the southwest corner of 17th St. is the quaint old residence once occu- pied by Washington Irving and his nephew, and at 18th St. is Hu3der's candy factory.

Irving PI. ends at 20th St. Here is Gramercy Park, of 1^/2 acres, set aside by S. B. Ruggles, one time owner of the land, for the use of the surrounding tenants. It is not open to the public.

On 20th St., a few feet east of Irving PI., is the Orthodox Friends' Meeting-house. Next door is the office of the Commis- sioner of Correction, where passes can be obtained to visit the correctional institutions maintained by the city. On the east side of the park is the Gramercy Park Building, one of the finest apart- ment houses in this part of the city. On the north and west side of the park are several mansions, formerly residences of famous New Yorkers, including David Dudley Field, Cyrus W. Field, William Steinway, Nicholas Fish, John Bigelow, Peter Cooper, 96

Kinii's How to See Nczv York.

97

UNION SQUARE AND FOI'HTII AVE.

Abram S. Hewitt, etc. The house of the latter, at the corner of 21st St. and Lexington Ave., is occupied by the Princeton Club. On 20th St., west of Irving PI., are three prominent clubs, the Co- lumbia University Club at No. 18, Players at No. 16 and National Arts Club at No. 14 Gramercy Park. The Players is a theatrical organization, founded 18S7. The building was presented to the club by Ed\vin Booth, who reserved some rooms as his living apartments and died there.

At Fourth -Ave. and 20th St. is All Souls' Unitarian Church, organized in 1819 and erected here in 1855. William CuUen Bry- ant, Peter Cooper and Joseph H. Choate worshiped here. Fourth Ave. is now in a transitory stage, this old residence street being rapidly converted into a commercial thoroughfare, with immense loft and office buildings on the sites of famous hotels and residences. The Clarendon Building replaced the Hotel Clarendon, southwest cor- ner of 18th St., the stopping-place of the Prince of Wales, later King Edward VH. of England, when he visited New York m 1860. Turning north, at 21st St., is Calvary Episcopal Church. At 22d St. is a group of prominent buildings. On the southeast cor- ner is the Church Missionary Society Building, occupied almost exclusively by religious bodies. At the northeast corner is the

98 King's Hozv to See New York.

Charities Building, presented by Kennedy to the Charity Organi- zation Society and the Association for Improving the Condition of the Poor. At the southwest corner is the low white marble building of the Bank for Savings, the first savings bank in New York City. On the northwest corner is a loft building. Adjoin- ing this, on the site of the Y. M. C. A. Building, is a 12-story building occupied principally by book concerns. Adjoining the Charities Building, is the building of the Society for the Pre- vention of Cruelty to Children, with dormitories on the upper floors for neglected children.

The north side of 23d St., from Fourth to Madison Ave., is occupied by the Metropolitan Life Insurance Building. At Lex- ington Ave. is the old red brick building occupied by the College of the City of New York from 1848 to 1905. At the northeast corner of Third Ave. is the N. Y. Ophthalmic Hospital for Treat- ment of the Eye, Ear and Throat, and adjoining it is the N. Y. College of Dentistry. On the same block is P. S. 47, for the deaf. Corner Second Ave. is Demilt Dispensary, founded in 1851.

Going southward on Second Ave., we again pass through an old residential section which is rapidly degenerating. Just below 22d St. is the R. C. Church of the Epiphany, with its school on 22d St. At 21st St. is the building of the UNITED HEBREW CHARITIES. The Jews of New York look after their poor, orphans, sick, aged and dead, and their philanthropic institutions and organizations are so numerous and so varied in their scope and activities as to entirely relieve the community from the care of any class of needy of that faith. The United Hebrew Charities co-operates with various sisterhoods, relief societies, orphan asy- lums, etc. Other organizations look after the sick, the immi- grants and victims of persecution in other countries. There are six large hospitals, four homes for the aged, several for children, a home for working girls, one society looks after the deaf, another has a free employment bureau for the handicapped, several aid those who wish to follow agriculture. There are free loan associations, free burial associations, societies to aid the Jewish prisoner, the wid- owed mother, the mother and child needing a vacation. A worthy Jewish philanthropy which deserves to be copied is the National Desertion Bureau. It acts as a legal advisor to all Jewish chari- table organizations in the L^'^nited States in matters relating to desertion, divorce and marital relations generally. Many of the Jewish philanthropies are unsectarian. No one factor has done more to dispel race prejudice toward the Jews than their willing- ness to open their philanthropic institutions to Jew and Gentile alike. Their great technical schools and five hospitals, including ^It.

Kind's Hoiv to See Nezv York. 99

Sinai and Lebanon in the Bronx, the Jewish Hospital in Brooklyn and the Montefiore Home for Chronic Invalids, are non-sectarian, although supported almost excUisivelv by Jews.

At 20th St. is the famous Post-Graduate Medical School and Hos- pital, and opposite the school, just east of Second Ave., is the Fahne- stock Training School for Nurses, with P. S. 40 just beyond. West of Second Ave. is the small Columbus Hospital, in charge of the Sisters of the Sacred Heart of Jesus, and patronized almost exclusively by Italians. At 19th St. is the N. Y. Skin and Cancer Hospital, one of the largest hospitals for these diseases in the United States. The block from 18th to 17th St. is occupied by the Lying-in Hospital, organized in 1798. This building, erected and fitted up at an expense of nearly $1,000,000, which was defrayed by the late J. P. Morgan, is the largest and best-equipped institu- tion of its kind in the world. The hospital has 176 beds and cares for over 13,000 patients in the hospital and a larger number of outside cases annually.

Stuyvesant Sq., which is divided into two parks by Second Ave., was presented to the city in 1836 by a descendant of the last Dutch Governor. It was formerly surrounded by residences of the old Dutch and English families, including the Stuyvesants, Rutherfords, Fishes, Everts, etc. A few of these old families are still found in the vicinity, but most of the houses are being con- verted for commercial or cheap residence purposes or removed. At the west side of the park, at the corner of 16th St. and Ruther- ford PI, is St. George's P. E. Church, from which the late J. P. Morgan was buried. The block from 15th to 16th St. and Ruther- ford PI. contains the Friends' Meeting-house and school. This sect w^as organized in 1696. On the south side of 15th St., opposite the meeting-house, is the German Masonic Temple. On the east side of the park is the Association for the Aid of Crippled Chil- dren, near 15th St., and on the corner the New York Infirmary for Women and Children. Just east is the Stuyvesant High School for boys, with room for 2,300 students. In addition to the aca- demic work, there are shops for technical classes. On 15th St., west of Livingston PL, is the home of the Nursing Sisters of the Poor. Corner of Second Ave. is the Hebrew Technical Institute for Girls, a splendid philanthropic institution, well worth a visit. Just south is the Little Mothers' Aid Association, and on the cor- ner of 14th St. is the Labor Temple, formerly a Baptist church, which has been converted into a public meeting-hall where social, political and economic questions are publicly discussed. Admis- sion is free, and any one may take part in a discussion.

Just west of Third Ave. is TAMMANY HALL, the home of

; i^^u ::^mr*:

1^

i

100

STEIXWAY HALL. 109 East 14:.;b St.. near 4th Ave.

Ki)ig's How to Sec Xczu York. 101

the famous political organization. The political party known as Tammany Hall is really the very big- tail wagged by a very sm.all dog. In 1789 the Columbian Order was organized to counteract the influence of the aristocratic Order of the Cincinnati. The Colum- bian Order took the name of a famous Indian Chief Tammany and in its ceremonies followed Indian rites ; its officers received Indian titles and the ordinary members were called braves. It was nominally a beneficial order, but it soon began to meddle in politics and built up a political organization so perfect that even the occasional overwhelming defeat of the party at the polls did not disturb it. In the Tammany Hall Building is the Olympic Theatre, a burlesque house. Sharkey's saloon opposite, run by the prize fighter, is a resort for east side sports. Adjoining it, at the corner of Irving PI., is the Academy of Music, the most famous opera house in America before the Metropolitan was opened in 1883. It was first opened in 18r)4. burnt in 1866 and opened again two years later. It now gives stock company plays.

At Xo. 109 E. 14th St., near the corner of Fourth Ave., is STEIN WAY HALL, the warehouse, salesrooms and general offices of the piano firm of Steinway & Sons. The white marble building was erected in 1866 and, until the early '90s, was the most famous concert hall in America. Every famous musical artist, instrumental and vocal, every popular conductor and every prominent musical organization that appeared in New York dur- ing that quarter of a century, appeared in Steinway Hall. Little can be added to what is already known of the house of Steinway & Sons, the best-known firm of piano manufacturers in the world.

Nearly opposite Steinway Hall is Liichow's Restaurant, a popu- lar German resort. On the same side of the street are several amusement places, including the City Theatre, with a seating capacity of 3,000. On the corner of Fourth Ave. is the German Savings Bank, and on the northeast corner two ordinary saloons, facing each other, each occupying a triangle plot, one facing the avenue, the other the street. Here is the subway.

JVEST OF FIFTH AVE.— ROUTE. Fourteenth St. Subzcay

Station to 15th St., to Fifth Ave., to i6th St., to Eleventh]

Ave., to 20th St., to Tenth Ave., to 23d St., to Sixth Ave., to

iSth St. Elevated Station.

^HIS is a retail trade section about Sixth Ave., and part of the

I old Greenwich residence section. On 14th St. and Union Sq. we

pass Keith's Theatre. On 15th St.. east of Fifth Ave., at No. 7, is

the Central Branch of the Young Women's Christian Association,

with the Margaret Louisa Home directly in the rear, facing on

102 King's Hozv to See New York.

16th St. The scope of the work of the Y. W. C. A. is similar to that of the Y. ]\I. C. A., and it has in addition a home for friend- less girls. Turn north on Fifth Ave. and west on 16th St.

The NEW YORK HOSPITAL, just west of the avenue, going through to 15th St., is the oldest hospital in New York, char- tered in 1771. Before this time the homeless ill were taken to the sick ward of the almshouse. The hospital originally occupied a building facing Broadway opposite the head of Pearl St. and moved to the present building in 1877. A branch called the House of Relief is on Hudson St., corner Jay St., and a branch for in- sane is the well-known Bloomingdale Asylum, near White Plains, N. Y. A Training School for Nurses adjoins the main building.

Near 6th Ave. is St. Francis Xavier College, adjoining St. Francis Xavier R. C. Church, one of the most beautiful Catholic churches in the city. The small building at No. 27 is a sub-sta- tion of the Edison Company. At the corner of Sixth Ave. is the Greenwich Savings Bank. At No. 120 is the N. Y. House and School of Industry. West of Seventh Ave., at No. 208, is the Sisters of Charity, St. Joseph's Home for the Aged. Passing

CHELSEA 1'1I:KS.

Ninth Ave., a block below may be seen the immense works of the National Biscuit Company, extending to Tenth Ave, and a great addition covering the entire block from Tenth to Eleventh Ave.

At the foot of the street and extending for nearly a quarter of a mile in each direction are the CHELSEA PIERS, nine granite steamship piers erected by the city in 1902 to 1907 at a cost of $15,000,000. Each pier is 125 ft. wide and from 800 to 853 ft. long, with 250 ft. width of water between them. The Cunard Line occupies the southerly ones, Nos. 53, 54 and 56, the French Line No. 57, the Atlantic Transport No. 58, White Star Nos. 59 and

King's Hozv to Sec Xcw York. 103

no. Red Star No. 61 and the American Line No. 62. Beyond is the open square at the foot of 23d St., with the ferries of the Central Railroad of New Jersey, Delaware, Lackawanna & West- ern and Erie Railroads on the west.

We turn in at 20th St., passing Chelsea Sq. between Ninth and Tenth Aves. This square was given to the General Theologi- cal Seminary in 1822 by Clement C. Moore, son of Bishop Benja- min Moore and author of the famous little poem, "The Night Before Christmas." We turn north at Tenth Ave. to 23d St. At 436 W. 22d St., east of Tenth Ave., is the house occupied by Edwin Forrest. The north side of 23d St., from Tenth to Ninth Ave., is occupied by a row of pillared buildings, which at the time of their erection, in 1845, were considered the finest residences in the city. After nearly 70 years they still present an air of refinement, though most of them are now tenements or boarding- houses. There are a number of quiet, small hotels or board- ing-houses on the south side of the street from Eighth to Tenth Ave., in buildings that a generation ago were fashionable resi- dences. The small building behind an iron fence on the north, side, east of Ninth Ave., now occupied by the Pasteur Institute,, was erected by Col. James Fisk for Josie Mansfield. The murder of Col. Fisk by his business partner, Edward S. Stokes, on account of this woman in January, 1872, and the three trials of Stokes formed the most notable criminal case in American history.

At the northwest corner of Eighth Ave. is the marble front Grand Opera House, opened 1868 as Pike's Opera House, It was then the most beautiful theatre in the city, and its lobby is still one of the finest theatre lobbies in the country. The building was owned by Colonel Fisk and Jay Gould, who had the offices of the Erie Railroad on the upper floors during tlie period that they succeeded in so demoralizing that road that it never recov- ered its prestige. The theatre is now a popular-price house, the plays being those that have run their course in the high-priced houses. At No. 234 is the Jersev Cattle Club.

On 23d St., west of Seventh Ave., is the 23d St. branch of the Y. AI. C. A. It also contains the offices of city and State executives of the association. Next is a branch of the New York Public Library and opposite is the Chelsea Hotel.

Between Seventh and Sixth Aves. is Proctor's 23d St. Thea- tre, and just beyond St. Vincent de Paul R. C. Church. Nearly opposite Proctor's Theatre, at No. 146, is J. A. Sierra's art and picture store. All of King's publications, as well as a full line of souvenirs, postals, engravings, lithographs and other pictures can be obtained here. Cameras and camera supplies are kept on hand.

104 Kifig's Hozc to See Nezv York.

and cameras are rented out for any length of time. Visitors are welcome to inspect his stock.

The building 111-113 W. 23d St. was opened in 1870 with Bryant's Minstrels on the ground floor. In 1874, Koster & Bial took charge of it, and for nearly 20 years Koster & Rial's ^lusic Hall was the most popular amusement resort in New York. Among those who appeared here were Carmencita, Otero, ]\Iadge Lessing, ]\larie Lloyd.

At the northeast corner of Sixth Ave. is the new Masonic Temple, on the site of the old Masonic Temple. Some of the chambers on the upper floors are sumptuously fitted up, especially the Commandery and other higher degree rooms. Just beyond is the Eden 3*Iusee, with a collection of wax figures, one of the remarkable exhibitions in the city. The southeast corner is the site of Booth's Theatre, opened in 1869 and closed in 1880, when the upward march of theatricals left it out of the theatre district. All of the fine department stores which were on this street a few years ago have moved to new quarters further uptown, McCreery's, formerly on the southeast corner, being the last to leave.

Turning south along Sixth Ave., we are in the heart of the lower shopping district. On the west side of the avenue, from 20th to 22d St., are the two large buildings of the O'Xeill-Adams Company, formed by the consolidation of the two department store concerns. The next block is occupied, on the west side, by Simpson-Crawford Company, another large department store, and on the east side by Cammeyer's, at 20th St., and Alexander's, at 19th St., two of the largest retail shoe stores in the city. On the northeast corner of 20th St. is the P. E. Church of the Holy Communion, organized in 1867. It has 800 members.

The block from 18th to 19th St., both sides, is occupied by the Greenhut-Siegel Cooper Company, another of the great depart- ment-store concerns. Opposite this store, on 18th St., east of Sixth Ave., is the main oflice building and premium station of the United Cigar Stores. This part of Sixth Ave. is filled with department stores, dry goods stores, clothing stores and other retail establishments. The Greenhut Company operates a free 'bus line for customers between their stores and the Broadway, Fourth Ave. and Third Ave. surface lines and the subway.

Opposite 18th St. "L" station, on the west side of Sixth Ave., is W. T. GRANT COMPANY'S 25C. DEPARTMENT STORE, the first and only store of its kind in New York — bright, orange- colored front. This store has 27 different departments, with no article selling for more than 25c. W. T. Grant Company's stores are located throughout the country.

23(1 to 34tk Street

EAST OF FIFTH AJ^E.—RGi'TF. Ticciity-tliird St. Subzi'ay Station, Fourth Ave., 24th St., Madison Ave, 34th St., Lex- ington Ave, 28th St., First Ave., 24th St.. Fourth Ave. to 23d St. Subzcay Statio>i.

FOURTH Ave., north of 23cl St., is fast becoming a street of high office and loft buildings, and lower Madison Ave. is just beginning to undergo a similar transformation.

Going up Fourth Ave., we pass the rear of the METRO- POLITAN LIFE INSURANCE BUILDING, and at the south- cast corner of 24th St. the Ashland Building, on the site of the famous Ashland Hotel. The many large buildings seen north- ward on Fourth Ave. are loft buildings, all erected since 1909. Going west on 24th St., we pass the Metropolitan Life Insurance Company's Annex, containing its printing offices and other offices. An interesting view of the pressroom may be had through the large windows on the street level. The size of this room, which is devoted exclusively to the printing required by the great m- surance concern, is a good illustration of its magnitude. On the south side of the street, occupying the entire block, is the side of the main building. At the Madison Ave. corner we stand under its wonderful tower, the main entrance to the building being on Madison Ave., nearer 23d St.

This is one of the most beautiful of the city's great buildmgs. It is of carved white marble, most elegantly finished, and one of the most valuable buildings in the world. The main building is 11 stories high, covering the entire block, while the tower is 52 stories, 700 ft.' above the sidewalk and two stories below the street 'level. It measures 75 by 85 ft. at the base. Electric elevators run to the 44th floor of the tower, and a charge ot 50 cts. is made for admission to the observation gallery, which is at the 45th floor. The view from this point is well worth the charge, for on a fair dav one can see 20 miles in all directions. To the north and northeast stretch the Hudson and East Rivers, and between them Alanhattan Island, with the roofs of many office buildings in the foreground and a little further away the trees of Central Park. To the east lies Long Island, and beyond it the ocean, while to the southeast, across Brooklyn, can be seen the towers of Coney Island. South is the towering mass of skvscrapers. and bevoncl them the bay, with the hills of Staten Island in the distance. To the southwest stands Liberty, while

105

Parkhurst's Church Annex Main Building 23d St.

METKOPOLITAN LIFE INSUKANCE COMPANY BUILDING 106 Madison to Fourtla Ave., 2.3a to 24th St.

King's How to See Nezv York. 107

west is the Hudson River, lined on both sides with great piers, and across the river is New Jersey and the Orange Mountains on the horizon. From no otlier point can so good an idea of the geography and general layout of the city and its surround- ings be had.

Entering the building at the main entrance, No. 1 Madison x\ve., we see the beautifully carved marble foyer with the grand staircase leading from the center to the second floor, where are the offices of the Metropolitan Life Insurance Company, the greatest industrial insurance corporation. Organized in 1868, it has grown to its present greatness under the able presidency of John R. Hegeman.

Back of the stairway and extending to Fourth Ave. is an arcade lined with shops, those on the south side extending to 23d St. One of the first stores is the YAXSS OPTICAL COM- PANY, with an entrance on 3 E. 23d St. This concern makes a specialty of eyeglasses and spectacles to the exclusion of side lines, and hence gives unexcelled service.

At arcade store No. 12 is the "WATCH SHOP," where all kinds of fine watches and jewelry are sold and repaired. Mr. R. Klockgiesser, the proprietor, is a native of Switzerland, which is famous for its watches, and as he is an expert watchmaker, having learned the trade in his youth, any work left with him will be well done.

On the north corner of 24th St. is the Madison Ave. Presby- terian Church, made famous by the pastorate of Dr. Parkhurst. The present structure, which was one of the last designed by Stanford White, was built in 1906, to take the place of one which stood on the corner now occupied by the Metropolitan Tower. Adjoining are three tall business buildings. On the 2r)th St. corner is the Court House of the Appellate Division of the Supreme Court. The building is rich in marbles, sculptured decorations, mural paintings and stained glass. The court room when court is in session is extremely impressive.

On the southeast corner of 26th St. is the Manhattan Club, the leading Democratic club, and on the northwest corner is the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals. At the northeast corner is MADISON SQUARE GARDEN, one of the largest amusement halls in America. Erected in 1890 at a cost of $3,000,000, it contains the largest amphitheatre in America, 300 by 200 ft. and 80 ft. high, with the arena 268 by 122 ft. The tower, surmounted by the gilt figure of Diana which acts as a weather vane, is 356 ft. high. The amphitheatre has a seating capacity of about 6,000, and on occasions where the arena

108

King's Hozv to See Nezv York.

can be used by the audience standino;. from 12,000 to 15,000 can be crowded into the building. Here is held the Horse Show, the Circus and many other exhibitions and meetings.

A loft building covers the site of the w^orkshop of John Stephanson, the street-car builder, on 27th St., just east of }^Iadi- son Ave. Adjoining it is the P. E. French church, Du St. Esprit, organized as the Huguenot church in 1628. West of ]\Iadison Ave. is the Broztell, a quiet, first-class hotel. On 28th St., w^est of Madison Ave., are the Prince George and Latham Hotels. At the southeast corner of 29th St. is the new 17-story Emmet Build- ing, an ofiice and loft building on the site of the residence of Dr. Thomas Addis Emmet, a grandson of the Irish patriot, Thomas Addis Emmet, the brother of Robert Emmet, who lives on the

17th floor. Op- posite is the Hotel Seville. . The HO- TEL DEAR- TH A WASH- LXGTOX for women exclu- sively is on E. 29th St., near ]\Iadison Ave. It is a well- appointed 12- story struc- ture, strictly fire-proof and convenient to all transporta- tion lines, theatres and shopping dis- trict, it con- tains 450 rooms, single and en suite, and is equipped with every fa- cility for the comfort of its g u e s ts. The

HOTEL MARTHA WASHINGTON. The Woi

Hotel, r e s t au rant

King's How to See A t^zc York.

109

and tea room, both of which are located on the main floor of the building, are open to gentlemen as well as ladies. The cuisine is excellent.

Near Fifth Ave. is the P. E. Church of the Transfiguration, the famous "Little Church Around the Corner."' The church on Madison Ave. and its rector who refused Mr. Joseph Jefferson's request to conduct the funeral services over George Holland, the aged actor, are gone and forgotten. The "Little Church Around the Corner," to which the rector sent Mr. Jefferson, and the mem- orv of its rector. Rev. Dr. Houghton, will never be forgotten by the dramatic profession. The building, a quaint, low Gothic

"LITTLE CIILKili .UajUXD THE CORNER."

structure, with a bit of greensward and a lych gate in front, is well worth seeing. On Madison Ave., just above 30th St., is the Colony Club, a fashionable club for women. The building, of red brick with white trimming, follow^s the Colonial style of archi- tecture. At 31st St. is the :\Iadison Ave. Baptist Church. On 32d St.. east of :\Lidison Ave., at No. 29, is the Grolier Club, an art association specializing in books.

^ladison Ave. and 34th St. was. even 10 years ago, the center of a fashionable residential section. The Cameron Building, at the northeast corner, was the first to break down by law the build- ing restriction which prevented the erection of commercial build- ings on ^Madison Ave. north of 34th St., and it is probable that other property owners in this vicinity will erect skyscrapers on the site of present residences. On 34th St., west of ]\Iadison Ave., is the marble front building of Altman's department store. Going eastward on 34th St., the Unitarian Church of the Messiah

110 King's Hozv to See New York.

is at the corner of Park (Fourth) Ave. On the southwest cor- ner, extending to 33d St., is the new ultra-fashionable Vanderbilt Hotel. On the block below, Fourth Ave., 32d to 33d St., is the Park Ave. Hotel. The building was erected by A. T. Stewart as a home for working women, but the rates were so high that working women could not afford to stop there, and it was con- verted into a first-class hotel. It has a very attractive interior court. On the southeast corner of 34th St. and Park Ave. is the Armory of the 71st Regiment and the First Signal Corps, also headquarters of the First Brigade, N. G., N. Y. The tower is for signaling purposes. (The National Guard in New York City consists of 7 regiments of Infantry, 1 regiment Engineers, 10 bat- teries Field Artillery, 1 Coast Artillery Corps divided into 3 districts, 11 troops of Cavalry, 2 companies of Signal Corps, 1 Field Hospital and 1 Ambulance Company, the whole numbering 627 officers and over 10,000 men.)

We go east to Lexington Ave., then south. At 30th St. is the building of the School of Applied Design for Women and on the southwest corner the First Moravian Church, established 1748. No. 123 Lexington Ave. is a brownstone house, the ground floor of which was recently altered. In the parlor of this house President Chester A. Arthur took the oath of office as President of the United States on September 19, 1881, upon the death of President Garfield. The house at the northeast corner of 28th St., formerly the residence of William R. Hearst, is on the site of the residence of Gen. Horatio Gates, who died here in April, 1806. It was purchased in 1913 by W. C. Reeves & Co., one of the lar- gest and most successful operators in suburban real estate. They have remodeled it and have their offices on the second floor. They cater chiefly to workingmen, selling on easy terms and financing home building. They also sell investment properties around New York. At 26th St. is the Armory of the 69th Regiment, composed almost exclusively of Irishmen, with a fine war record. Going east on 28th St., we pass St. Stephen's R. C. Church and school.

, At First Ave. is BELLEVUE HOSPITAL, the great public hospital of the city, extending from 29th to 26th St. and to the river, covering over 11^ acres. The central portion of the old building, facing 27th St., was opened as the Almshouse in 1816, and has been used as a hospital since 1826, but is now to be torn down to make room for the new buildings as soon as accom- modations are provided for its patients. The new buildings, as at present planned, will constitute one of the most complete hos- pitals. There will be 12 ward pavilions, each seven stories high, with the exception of the central section, which will be nine

King's Ilozv to See Nezv York.

Ill

stories high; the two additional stories will be used as the chil- dren's section. On the roof of each ward pavilion will be an open-air ward planned for use in all seasons. All wards are ex- posed on three sides, and each has large balcony space directly accessible from the ward. The basement will contain storage- rooms, mechanical plants and corridors for general traffic of the hospital. In addition to the usual wards, there will be special preparation for the treatment of criminal, psychopathic and alco- holic cases. There will be a special building for isolation cases. In all there will be approximately 2.200 beds. The buildings alreadv erected are the two pavilion buildings facing the river near

NEW BELLEVUE HOSPITAL.

2Gth and 29th streets respectively, the boiler-house, laundry build- ing and storage building and the Pathological Department and Male Dormitory Building on 29th St. and First Ave. The sur- gical pavilions are at present in course of erection. The out- patients' department and dormitory for female nurses will be erected on the corner of 26th St. and First Ave. The main visitors' entrance will be in the center between 26th and 29th Sts. on First Ave. The Receiving Department will be on 26th St., near the present main entrance. Adjoining the entrance is now the Mills' Training School for Male Nurses and directly opposite is the Training School for Female Nurses. Opposite the entrance is Loomis Laboratory of Cornell University, and

Hotel Biltmore Bridfe'e uver 4:^1.1 t?t. 'ieruiiual Proper

GRAND CENTRAL TERMINAL. New York Central Lines, Park Ave. and 42d St. and 3,000,000 cubic yards of earth and rock were excavated. Ten j'ears were req"

112

Office Buildings Grand Ct^nual Taluce

114 King's Hozc to See Neiv York.

next is Osborne Hall. Gouverneur Hospital, at the foot of Gouver- neur St. ; Harlem Hospital, Lenox Ave. between 135th and 136th Sts., and Fordham Hospital, on Southern Boulevard, Bronx, are allied with and under the same control as Bellevue Hospital. There is also a school for the training of midwives. on 2Gth St., east of Third Ave. Adjoining the ^lills' Training School are pavilions A and B of the new Bellevue Hospital next the Morgue, and at the foot of the street is the pier and offices of the Commissioner of Public Charities.

If time permits we can get a pass here to visit the city chari- table institutions, comprising the City Hospital and Training School, 'Metropolitan Hospital and Training School for Nurses and the City Home for the Aged and Infirm, all on Blackwell's Island; the Children's Hospital and schools on Randall's Island, the hospitals in Brooklyn, the City Farm Colony and Sea View Hospital, Borough of Richmond, the morgues in all boroughs and the Municipal Lodging House at 432 E. 25th St., Manhattan. This has accommodations for 1,000 homeless men and women, who are given a bed and breakfast